The Woof Blog

Top 10 Situations Requiring Immediate Veterinary Care

Rick Delgado — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:53:00 GMT

If these situations arise in your dog or cat, you must immediately get them to your veterinarian for further evaluation and care. These are very serious. Remember these, or better yet write them down and carry them with you so you will always have them for reference so you know how serious they are.

Some are obvious, but some you may feel like waiting on. Please, do not wait because it could not turn out well.

1. Trauma: Head, Chest, or Abdomen

2. Seizure: Prolonged or First Time

3. Arterial Bleeding

4. Fractures

5. Poisoning

6. Shock

7. Respiratory Distress

8. Inability to Walk

9. Bloat

10. Unconciousness

Immediate veterinary care can help to save your pet's life in these situations.

Reference: Pet First Aid and Care Handbook
Author Thom Somes
Pet Tech, Pet First Aid Training Center
http://www.PetTech.net

Pet First Aid Kit Contents

Rick Delgado — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:59:00 GMT

Pet owners never want to think that anything could happen to our pets. We are sure that nothing ever will, and that we don't need to worry about it, or if anything does happen, that we can just rush them to the vet's office and they can take care of our beloved animals.

Well, as a professional pet sitter, we need to be prepared for anything that can happen. Remember, you will not always be near a vehicle to transport your pet right away and you may not be able to get them to a vet safely if they have not had pet first aid administered first.

Admininstering pet first aid will give your pet a better chance at coming through an incident than a pet that has not had first aid before transport to your veterianarian.

You need to have a pet first aid kit with you at all times in your home, and whenever you go anywhere with your animals. You never know what may happen.

Pet First Aid Kit Contents

Dressings & Bandages

1. Adhesive Tape (1 inch roll)
2. Guaze pads (3 or 4 inch squares)
3. Guaze rolls (2 inch for small dogs, 3 inch for big dogs)
4. Triangular bandages
5. Individually wrapped Sanitary Napkins

Instruments

1. Digital Thermometer (check battery twice a year)
2. Scissors (blunt end)
3. Tweezers
4. Eye Dropper
5. Syringe (12cc with needle removed)

Ointments, Disinfectants & Medications

1. Antihistamine (gel caps in blister pack, poke hole with safety
pin and squirt into pet's mouth)
2. Antibiotic (triple) (ex. Neosporin)
3. Hydrogen Peroxide (3%)
4. Mercurochrome
5. Vinegar or Baking Soda (for neutralizing burns caused by acid)
6. Activated Charcoal (for absorbing poisons)
7. Petroleum Jelly (lubricant for thermometer)
8. Kaopectate
9. Chemical Ice Pack

Misc. Equipment and Supplies

1. Small Flashlight
2. Needle Nose Pliers
3. Q-tips
4. Betadine Solution
5. Razor Blades
6. Extra Leash and Collar
7. Muzzle
8. Plastic Bags (for clean up or samples)
9. Permanent Marking Pen
10. Towel or Blanket (big enough to use for transport)
11. Latex, Nitrile or Rubber Gloves
12. Photo of You with Your Pet

You can fit the basics in a fanny pack and carry it with you whenever you take your dog for a walk. The larger items can be a part of your vehicle pet first aid kit, and your home pet first aid kit.

You should also take a Pet First Aid and CPR class so you know exactly what to do in a situation, and how to properly use your first aid kit. The Woof Pack offers local training and certification. Go to http://www.thewoofpack.com to check for the training schedule.

If you are not in the local area, go to http://www.pettech.net to find a Pet First Aid Trainer in your area.

Reference: Pet First Aid and Care Handbook
Author Thom Somes
Pet Tech, Pet First Aid Training Center
http://www.PetTech.net

Should You Express Your Pet's Anal Glands or Not?

Rick Delgado — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 18:35:00 GMT

This may be an unpleasant topic to some, but it's something pet owners should be aware of so they can deal with it if and when they have to. The topic? Anal glands. Should you have them expressed, or not?

What are Anal Glands?

Anal glands can be found on either side of your cat or dog's anus, underneath the skin. They are small sacs that secrete a liquid that has a strong, unpleasant odor. This smelly liquid is that cat or dog's unique and identifying odor.Normally, the liquid is secreted along with the animal's feces.

If the animal's feces is not hard enough (which some attribute to modern pet food, which is usually higher in fillers rather than meat),the anal sacs will not receive enough pressure to "express" the fluid. Sometimes, a dog or cat will express their glands of the fluid when it is startled or scared.

Some even express their glands when the vet uses a rectal thermometer. One of my clients experienced that with a newly acquired cat. She took the cat in for a check-up and during the exam, the room was suddenly filled with a very stinky odor!

How Do I Know if My Pet's Anal Glands Need to be Expressed?

Like any pet issue, some animals don't have any problems while others have consistent problems with their glands. For some, a high-fiber diet (that will bulk up feces)and regular checks of the anal glands might be necessary. It's up to you to stay observant and act fast when you see something out of the ordinary.

If the glands are not expressed regularly or adequately,the liquid can become thicker and the glands can become impacted. If bacteria enters the glands, an infection can result,and even escalate to an abscess. This is very painful for the animal and will need medical treatment.

Some problem signs you may want to watch for include:

"scooting," or dragging of the rear end on the floor
excessive licking of the anal area
crying when trying to defecate
unusually soft stools
unusually strong odor from the anal area
obvious sensitivity in the rear end

Take your pet for a vet visit if you suspect an anal gland problem. As with any medical condition, the sooner you address it, the better. If the problem becomes chronic, surgical removal of the glands might be necessary.

Can I Express the Glands Myself?

Yes,if you are properly instructed and motivated, you can learn how to express your pet's anal glands. The best thing you can do is talk to your vet about this topic and see if they can help you with instructions. Expressing the glands means locating the sacs and applying the proper pressure in the right direction.

This is a sensitive area, so learning how to express the glands properly is important. If you don't do things correctly, you can potentially cause more problems, like infection. You can also have your groomer or vet do the deed.

Here is a site I found online that demonstrates expressing the anal glands of a dog.

www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-grooming-basics-glands.htm

References:

dogs.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Dog_Anal_Glands

www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&cat=1322&articleid=509

Senior Pet and Overweight Pet Health Screening

Rick Delgado — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 17:35:00 GMT

Overweight pets and older pets can start to develop problems associated with their weight or age. I'm sure you have heard the rule that the way to age pets is to take their age in human years and multiply that by 7. So, a 5 year old dog would be 35 in dog years.

The new rule of 7 is that you should consider your pet a senior when they reach the age of 7 years old. For giant breeds, this would actually be 5 years of age. Overwight pets age prematurely and may exhibit some of the signs of old age at an earlier age.

If your pet is overweight or over 7 years old (over 5 years for giant breeds), you should have your vet start administering senior pet exams. Begin with a complete physical examination to determine a baseline of health for your pet and/or to rule out any medical reason your pet may be overweight. Lab tests should include the following.

1. Blood count
2. Fecal
3. Liver and Kidney
4. Chemistry Panel
5. Blood Pressure
6. Oral Health including teeth, gums, and mouth
7. Thyroxine (T4)
8. Heart Function
9. Urinalysis
10. Complete Blood Panel
11. X-Rays (only if recommended by your veterinarian)

If your pet is overweight, they may experience common problems usually only seen in older pets. Please, get your pet on a weight
loss plan which will decrease chances of disease, and will increase their life expectancy.

Older pets should have a senior exam every year. Pets that have developed a problem should have this type of exam every six months, or as recommended by your veterinarian.

Reference: Pet First Aid and Care Handbook
Author Thom Somes
Pet Tech, Pet First Aid Training Center
http://www.PetTech.net

Walking Your Dog Every Day. Is it That Important?

Rick Delgado — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 17:29:00 GMT

How important is it that your dog gets out every day for a dog walk?

It is very important. We hear about how we humans should exercise at least 30 minutes every day, and this is the same for our dogs. When our dogs lay around all day and don't get any exercise, they will get overweight, just like humans would.

When my dog was younger, he would get out for a dog walking 4 times a day, for at least 30 minutes at a time. Now, this may be more than most people can do, and I was going to school at the time and had a job where I worked early in the morning and was home by mid-morning. I know most people don't have this type of schedule. So at least one good 45 minute dog walk per day will help keep your pup in good shape.

Note, I did say a 45 minute dog walking. I believe this is the magic number for a fast paced outing with your dog. Make sure you maintain a brisk pace. Let them do their business, but don't let them mill around. Keep up the pace and keep moving forward.

You can do shorter walks during the day to let your dogs do their business, or they can do potty in the yard, if this is your situation. The 45 minute dog walk is for exercise, so make sure you keep focused on this.

Now, depending on your dog's health, and yours, you may do this walk on flat land, or you may get more adventurous and head for the hills. Please do make sure that your dog has been given the go ahead from your veterinarian for this type of exercise. Depending on you and your dog's health, if you do climb hills, be sure not to overwork your dog. An overweight dog or older dog will need to walk at a slower pace when climbing hills. Again, your vet can help you with a dog walking regimen.

Please make sure you always bring fresh water with you on your walks, and that you give your dog plenty of water when needed. Your dog will want to please you and will continue walking for you. It is up to you to make sure they get water breaks, especially when it is hotter outside. It is best to do this 45 minute exercise dog walk when it is coolest outside. This may mean that the best time to walk your dog will be in the early morning or late evening.

Of course, along with a good exercise every day, you need to keep a healthy diet for your dog. Along with a good dog walking each day, you should feed your dog a proper amount of food. Every dog is different and has a different metabolism, just like humans do. Talk to your vet to get a good guideline, and feed a good quality food, preferably a holistic type of dog food.

Keep treats to a minimum, and make sure they do not have a high fat or calorie content. This is where a lot of people tend to falter. You must take into account the extra calories and fat that dog treats may have in them. This can put extra weight on your dog, even if you feed a good balanced diet at feeding time.

The more active your dog is, the higher his metabolism will be. If your dog is walking 45 minutes every day and getting good exercise, he may need extra calories. Give him these extra calories in his regular diet, not with treats. Dog treats make us feel good, but are not necessary for your dog's survival. If you feel the need to give your dog extra treats, give him carrots, watermelon, bok choy, or some other fresh veggie or fruit that is good for him, safe for him to eat, and that he likes. These are some of my dog's favorites.

Your Dog Still Needs Exercise When It's Wet and Rainy

Rick Delgado — Thu, 08 Jul 2010 18:52:00 GMT

Sometimes there's nothing more relaxing than to snuggle up on the couch with a good book on a damp and dreary day. And I'm sure your dog would love nothing more than to curl up next to you to keep you company.That would be a fine thing to do on a rainy day, but remember that at some point, you'll have to rouse yourselves and get out there for your daily dog walk.

If you're like me, you don't particularly like the idea of stomping around out in the rain, but it's one of those things I just accept as a dog owner.Big or small, young or old, all dogs need daily exercise. A good amount of exercise means 30 to 40 minutes or walking at least one mile. If you can accommodate several 20-minute walks everyday, that would be fine, but a good 45 minute walk is ideal.

If you're willing to brave the weather, consider a raincoat made especially for dogs.But, if going out in the rain is just not something you're willing to do, how about some indoor alternatives?

One of the easiest ways to deal with the rain is to just walk your dog around and around inside your house. Clip on that leash and make a circuit throughout your house.

If you happen to own a treadmill, you might want to teach your dog how to walk on it.

I just saw an episode of "Dog Whisperer" on the National Geographic Channel where Cesar Milan got a dog to start walking on the treadmill. He just put the leash on the dog, led him to the treadmill, had him first just step onto it, then eventually turned on the machine (at a very low speed to start).Cesar was straddling the moving part of the treadmill while the dog started walking just beneath him. After a bit of zigzagging,the dog got the hang of it, and just started trotting along.

There are even treadmills made especially for dogs. Hop online and you're sure to find one of these products for sale. There are also video clips of dogs walking on treadmills so you can see how it all works.

You can also play games with your dog, such as fetch. You do have to be careful with games because they can tend to make dogs a bit too excited. So, you might want to consider games that require more mental exercise such as hide and seek with a favorite toy or treat.

Exercising your dog is not only for his/her physical health, but also for his/her overall well-being. A well-exercised dog is less likely to have behavioral issues such as separation anxiety, excessive barking, digging, and chewing.

Also, please note that just leaving your dog out in a big yard in good weather doesn't mean he/she is getting proper exercise. Dogs don't tend to exercise on their own. You have to take charge of that part of your dog's life to ensure that they get plenty of exercise every single day.

References:

www.dogguide.net/physical-exercises.php

www.doggiesparadise.com/exercise.shtml

Your Pet Can Tell You When They Are in Pain

Rick Delgado — Thu, 08 Jul 2010 18:17:00 GMT

We never want to see our pets uncomfortable or in pain. And in many instances, when they are in pain, they will mask it and you won't know they need help. The common belief is that it's instinct - an animal in pain is weak, is vulnerable to attack, and won't survive long in the wild. To better the odds of survival, the animal hides its pain.

So, knowing that animals tend to hide pain is a good first step toward ensuring that you get your pet the help he/she needs quickly when needed. The next is knowing your pet well. You observe and interact with your pets every day, so you will be the first to notice when something is amiss.

Here are some signs to watch for:

Unusual Behavior

I know my cat's behaviors pretty well. I know how they act on a day-to-day basis, what they tend to do during the day and night. If my usually active cat who likes to sprint across the room once in a while for no reason stops that behavior, seems lethargic or quiet, or sleeps even more than usual, that would raise red flags for me. If my very affectionate cat who loves to snuggle starts to prefer being alone or even avoids contact, that would definitely mean something is wrong.

Unusual Vocalizations

Hurt animals will sometimes tell you through vocalizations such as squealing, hissing, screaming, etc.

Ceases Grooming

If you notice that your usually soft and fluffy cat looks ruffled and greasy, that might be a sign that he/she has stopped grooming his/herself. Animals that don't feel well will stop grooming.

Weight Gain or Loss

Pay attention to your pet's weight. Pain can cause your pet to eat less and lose weight. Or, pain may slow your pet down and it will get less exercise, leading to weight gain. Too much gain or loss signals a problem.

Difficulty Eating/Bad Breath

If your pet has trouble chewing food and/or has bad breath, you should get his/her teeth checked. Animals have the same problems as we do when it comes to teeth. They have plaque and tartar, and can develop cavities and gum disease. Most pet owners probably don't brush their pet's teeth regularly, so the likelihood of dental problems is increased.

Having Potty Accidents

Although at times a stray poop may be a behavioral issue (like the time my friend's cat pooped on her comforter because she hated her new cat litter), sometimes it's a physical problem. Another friend had an older cat and as the cat began to have problems moving around, she started to go here and there on the bedroom floor. She just couldn't make it to the litter box all the time. A common cause of accidents is urinary tract infection.

Limping, Scratching, Biting

If you notice your pet limping, that's a sure sign of pain. If there is excessive scratching or biting of a particular area, that area is probably bothering them.

The best thing you can do for your pets is to get to know them and their habits and behaviors. That way, if you encounter anything out of the ordinary, you'll be able to react quickly and save your pet from experiencing unnecessary and prolonged pain. If you see any of the signs listed above, you should take your pet to your vet for a check-up. Tell your vet what you've observed so they can receive the best care possible.

References:

http://www.healthypet.com

http://www.bgsu.edu/offices/orc/iacuc/Recognizing Pain.doc

Bathing Your Dog

Rick Delgado — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 20:33:00 GMT

It's getting to be that time to give my dog Storm a bath, so I thought I would talk about dog bathing. As an older dog who has had many baths in his lifetime, he tolerates it without a problem. I wouldn't say that he enjoys it, but he puts up with it.

Why do dogs dislike getting a bath so much? Storm loves to swim, but he does not like the rain all that much either. When it's raining, he would rather stay inside and hold his potty than go out. Well, sometimes he has no choice. We put on the leash and out we go. Hey, after all, I am getting wet too.

What does the rain have to do with anything? It's all about control. When our dogs swim, they have control of the situation. Even though the lake water is not all that clean, it is usually his idea to go in for a swim. He is having fun and just enjoying life.

However, when it rains he has no control. This is why your dog may not like his baths. It is usually our idea to bathe them, not his. Although some dogs like a bath, has your dog ever come up to you with his shampoo in his mouth, leading you to the bathtub? I don't think so. He is not controlling the situation.

Bathing your dog in a bathtub, in a self-serve dog bathing facility, or out back with the garden hose spraying cold water on him, it wasn't your dog's idea and he is most likely not in his usual environment. And, he has to worry about getting sprayed in the face, and getting soap in his eyes. What an ordeal!

So, how often do I bathe Storm? He gets a bath about once every five weeks. Every four weeks would be better, but it never seems to work out that way. Should you give your dog a bath that often? It all depends on your dog. Some dogs may need baths more often than that.

Storm gets out at least three times daily, and we get pretty adventurous. He gets dirty quickly. The quicker your dog gets dirty, the more often he will need a bath. If your dog is a homebody, and only goes out briefly and stays pretty clean, he may not need a bath so often. I would say every dog needs a bath at least 4 times a year, or every three months at the least. Like I said, dirty dogs need to be bathed more often.

Another reason to bathe your dog more frequently is to control dander in the house. If you or a family member is allergic to pet dander, then a dog bath will remove that dander. For your dog, bathing can help remove any allergens that are in his coat which may be causing him to scratch and lick more frequently.

If your dog gets smelly, make sure you know where the smell is coming from. Check his ears first. If his ears are dirty then clean them. Especially for long-eared dogs, you need to keep a schedule to keep your dog's ears clean. You should clean your dog's ears really well about once a month. If you are not comfortable cleaning your dog's ears, have your groomer or vet take care of it for you.

Next, check your dog's mouth. If he has a foul odor coming from his mouth, then a dog bath won't help. Start your dog on a schedule for brushing his teeth. If his teeth and gums are in bad shape, then take him to a vet for a good teeth cleaning. You may need to change his diet. Some food can make your dog's mouth very smelly, but a poor quality food can also make your dog's coat smelly. So always make sure you are feeding a good quality dog food.

If you have a long-haired dog, or a double-coated dog, check the coat to make sure there are no mats of dead hair which are trapping bacteria and causing the coat to smell. All matted hair must be removed before giving your dog a bath or you will just have the same problem. The mats of hair trap in bacteria and moisture, causing bad odors. And, matted hair can be painful for your dog as the mat tightens up and pulls on the skin.

Next, check your dog's rear end. Trapped pieces of feces can certainly cause bad odors. Keep his rear end clean. There may be a lot of hair around that area that can trap dirt and feces. You may want to keep that area trimmed to help keep it clean.

The next big tip is to brush your dog's coat completely and thoroughly before getting him wet. This will remove dead hair that has been shed, and you will be able to find any mats of hair that need to be removed before bathing. Brushing your dog before his bath will make your job of dog bathing much easier. Brush his entire body and make sure any mats of hair are completely removed. If you cannot remove the mats of hair, take him to the groomer or vet. A last resort would be to cut out the matted hair.

Use a specially formulated dog shampoo only. Do not use human shampoos, as a dog's skin requires a specific pH balance, different from humans. Make sure to wet your dog's coat completely, and soap him up. Make sure to clean the face, rear end, and feet really well. Work the shampoo well into his coat. The water temperature should be the same as you would use for a baby.

A very, very important step is to rinse your dog completely. You must get all shampoo residue out of your dog's skin, or it will cause irritation. This includes your dog's feet. As you rinse your dog, he stands in all of the soap runoff. Take care to rinse your dog's feet well after all the suds are gone at the bottom of the tub.

You want to completely dry your dog off after his bath. If you leave your dog to air dry, he may get cold, unless it is very warm out. If it is cold outside, you want to leave your dog inside for a few hours. Also, you are just asking the hair to mat up as it dries. You don't have to worry about this in short-haired breeds, but if you have a long-haired dog, you don't want to start out with matted hair right after you've bathed him. Also, a wet coat can breed bacteria. You don't want this any time, but especially after you just bathed your dog.

To really dry your dog well, you want to towel him dry as well as possible. Try to avoid twisting the hair up as you dry your dog. Brush your dog right after towel drying him. After he is towel dried and brushed, it is best to use a good quality pet hair dryer. Using a human hair dryer is not recommended, as it can get too hot for your dog's skin. Even if your personal hair dryer has a cool setting,they are usually not strong enough to get your dog's coat completely dry.

Make sure to end the drying cycle with another good brushing, and your dog should be happy and clean.

References:
Dogs, The Ultimate Care Guide
Bathtime, pgs.411-418

Cataracts and Your Pet, a Question from a Reader

Rick Delgado — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 20:22:00 GMT

I got an email from one of our clients of The Woof Pack, and she had a question for me. It's a good question and it may pertain to your pet as well. She reads our newsletters, and she asks:

-------------------------
"I was wondering if you could do a newsletter on Cataracts for aging dogs. My dog has cataracts in his eyes and my sister
said that cataracts can cause a dog to go blind. A vet technician suggested that I get them removed but I heard that anesthesia can be fatal for an older dog."

"Do you know anything about this? What are your thoughts?"

Jeanine
--------------------------

Thanks for the great question Jeanine. Although she is asking about cataracts in her dog, I will answer about cataracts in
general for dogs and cats. Here we go.

Just like in humans, it is common for our animal companions to suffer from age-related ailments, such as cataracts in the
eyes. Cataracts are the clouding of the lens of the eyes. The lens is a clear structure in the eye behind the iris and pupil which refracts light onto the retina, allowing vision and focusing.

Cataracts breaks down the fibers in the lens and gives the pupils a milky opaque appearance, blocks light, and diminishes
vision. If left untreated and if your dog or cat's cataracts progress steadily, it can eventually cause blindness.

Although cataracts can develop in a young dog or cat due to heredity, illness (e.g. diabetes), infection, trauma, or nutritional deficiency, it most commonly occurs because of aging and it affects both eyes simultaneously. The condition of the cataracts may progress at a different rate in each eye, though.

If you notice a milky or cloudy spot on the pupils of your pet, have him examined by a veterinary ophthalmologist. You have to make sure that the problem is cataracts, not lenticular or nuclear sclerosis, which also occurs with age and appears as cloudiness in the eyes, but does not affect vision.

Once a diagnosis is made, make sure to consult with your vet about your options. A thorough examination is important because your pet and his eyes (besides the cataracts) must be in good health if you are to consider surgery to treat the cataracts.

One common operation isphacoemulsification, which uses ultrasound waves to break up the cataract. The contents of the lens are removed and an artificial lens may be inserted into the lens capsule.

Other operations can remove the whole lens out of the lens capsule that contains it, or the entire lens, including the capsule. Each option will be up to you and your vet to discuss for the best outcome. As with many ailments, the sooner you discover and treat cataracts, the better.

There are some who do not agree with or may not have the option of surgery. If that's the case, again talk to your vet to learn what you can do to slow the development of the cataracts. You might be advised to try affecting the cataracts through diet (e.g., adding more vitamins A, C, and E) or through medications administered via eye drops. Routinely taking your pet in for eye exams will also help.

As with any important decision you make for your pet's health, you may want to get a second opinion about surgery vs. non-surgical treatment.

If you decide on surgery, keep in mind the risks of anesthesia. Your pet should be in good health and be able to withstand
the stress of surgery. Although the risks are greater for older animals, there is always some risk when your pet goes under no matter how healthy they are.

Again, this is a subject you should talk to your vet about and make sure a thorough check, including blood tests, is done on your pet to determine how anesthesia might affect him. It is important to make sure your pet's heart, lungs, liver, and immune system function normally. Every animal is different, so it is up to you and your vet to properly weigh the risks and the benefits of subjecting your pet to anesthesia and surgery.

Also be aware of how to monitor and care for your pet before and after surgery. Be sure to follow instructions from your vet in preparation for the operation. Older pets take longer to recover from anesthesia and surgery, so get detailed instructions on what to expect afterward and what you should do to make recovery as fast and stress-free as possible.

If you ever have any questions, do not hesitate to call your vet and ask! You pay a lot for their time and expertise, so use it to your advantage. Just because the procedure may be over, ask them questions. They will be happy to help you.

References:
http://www.animaleyecare.net/diseases/cataract.htm
http://billknell.tripod.com/petadvice/cataract.htm
http://www.animaltalknaturally.com/2008/06/12/what-can-you-do-to-treat-cataracts-and-nuclear-lenticular-sclerosis-in-the-horse-dog-and-cat/

https://www.thepetmedsite.com/pet-health/cataracts.htm
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1604+1606&aid=407
http://www.animaleyecare.net/diseases/cataract.htm
http://www.dogsadversereactions.com/anesthSeniorDog.html
http://www.doctordog.com/Drdognewsletter/anesthesia.html
http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/ClientED/anesthesia.aspx

Caring for Your Overweight Cat

Rick Delgado — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 19:01:00 GMT

Just like in humans, obesity in cats can lead to many health complications and diseases. Yet today, there are many overweight cats out there that need to shed a few pounds. Many owners might not even know that their cats are carrying too much weight because fur can cover some of that chubbiness.

But obesity is not cute and is the cause of many problems for domesticated cats.There are diseases and disorders that can be linked to diet and obesity. Organs get stressed when the body is carrying too much fat. Bones and joints also come under stress.

Common ailments linked with cat obesity include diabetes mellitus, hepaticlipidosis, and arthritis. Diabetes has become more common in today's cats, especially in those that are obese. The disease is caused by the body being unable to secrete enough insulin to convert sugars or glucose into energy (type 1), or the body's cells not responding adequately to insulin (type 2).

A typical symptom of diabetes is excessive thirst and urination. Basically, the body is trying to rid itself of the excess glucose in the urine by flushing it out via urination. Another symptom is weight loss as the body cannot covert glucose into energy, causing hyperglycemia or high blood sugar levels. Your overweight cat may also become lethargic, have an increase in appetite, exhibit weakness in the rear legs, and have poor fur condition.

Diabetes is a serious condition and can cause death, so if you suspect your cat is suffering from this disease, act quickly to have him diagnosed and treated by your veterinarian.

Another complication that could affect your cat because of obesity is hepaticlipidosis, or fatty liver. This condition is usually caused when a cat stops eating for three or more days and in some cases is a side effect of hyperthyroidism or diabetes.

When you put your cat on a decreased food diet, you have to be careful not to overdo it so your cat doesn't develop this complication. Nature never intended for cats to store huge amounts of fat, so when our spoiled, domesticated cats get overweight, then we try to get them slimmed down too quickly, the liver can't properly convert the stored fat into energy and the liver fails.

This is something you'll want to discuss with your vet so you feed the right amount of food to your cat when undergoing a weight-loss program.

Although there are several different types of arthritis that cats can suffer, this condition, which is generally known as an inflammation of the joints, tends to be a bigger problem for an obese cat. They are more prone to suffering from arthritis, and if they have it, will suffer more when carrying around excess fat.

If you see that your cat seems to have pain and stiffness when moving around, it's time for a vet visit to diagnose the problem to see if it is arthritis so you can start begin treatments to alleviate pain and prolong the health of the joints.

And what causes obesity? You can probably guess correctly that it's pretty much caused by the same things that hurt humans --poor diet and lack of exercise. Just like in humans, if your cat takes in more calories than it burns, the excess will turn into fat.

Our pampered pets at home, especially those that are strictly indoor cats, don't usually exercise like their wild ancestors. In those times, a meal was never a sure thing. They had to work hard to put food in their bellies, so they were expending a lot of energy and calories to catch a meal so they could survive another day.

Our cats mainly eat and sleep in our comfortable homes that have no challenges, no threats, and readily available food that doesn't need to be chased down. Food is usually abundant, and sometimes cats are even fed table scraps.

When considering your cat's diet, remember that he is an obligate carnivore, or a meat-eater. Cats are designed to eat and thrive on a meat-based diet. They are not able to process and utilize carbohydrates like humans. But if you look at the bags or boxes of commercial dry cat foods available, you will see that most have grains such as corn or wheat as their number one ingredient. Dry cat foods also contain flour and sugar as binding ingredients.

To keep your cat's diet well-balanced for the natural meat-eater he is, the food should contain about 35% to 45% protein (dry weight, meaning calculation is based percent of diet after water is removed), about 40% fat, and very little carbohydrates. Although we treat our cats like our babies, they are not human and they do much better when eating a high-protein, high-
fat diet.

To check if your cat is overweight for its size and breed, you should talk to your veterinarian. They can give you guidelines about how much your cat should weigh and how they should look.

Have the vet give your cat a full physical checkup, including blood and urine tests, before you do anything. It's important to make sure your pet is generally healthy and doesn't have any underlying disease or problem that is causing his obesity, such as a thyroid or metabolic disorder. Remember that age, which brings on decreased activity and a slower metabolism, can also lead to excess weight.

If your cat happens to be overweight, he will need help from you. You control his food and to some extent, his activity level. Consult with your vet about what kind of diet your cat should be consuming so that he gets proper nutrition, while at the same time cutting calories. Ask about the proper amount and frequency of feedings, and about any supplements that
your cat may need.

As for activity, it's usually fairly simple to get a cat up and moving. They are natural predators, so you can tap into their instincts and have them chase after toys such as a toy mouse on a string or the light from a laser pointer.

Buy or build a structure, like a tall cat condo so your cat will have something to jump up onto or climb up onto. If your cat is the only pet, consider adopting another cat as a playmate. This will take a little discipline and dedication from you so that your cat gets a good amount of running and jumping around every day. Just like for us humans, start out slow and build up your cat's exercise routine. Don't overdo it at the beginning. You don't want to injure your cat!

As with humans, rapid weight loss is not desirable. Slow and steady weight loss is the best for your cat and it's all up to you to help him achieve that goal. Once your cat is at optimum weight, you can be happy that you've helped him add quality and probably quantity to his life.

References:
http://www.thepetcenter.com/imtop/catweight.html
http://www.felinediabetes.com/diabetes-info.htm
http://www.felinediabetes.com/hepatic.htm
http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_hepatic_lipidosis.html
http://www.sniksnak.com/cathealth/arthritis.html
http://ezinearticles.com/?Cat-Arthritis---Symptoms-And-
Treatments&id=723079

A Raw Pet Food Diet? BARF!

Rick Delgado — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 18:45:00 GMT

Along with the many different diets and eating programs we find for ourselves, there is an alternative way to feed our pets besides the usual packaged commercial pet foods we find in our grocery and pet stores. This alternative is called the raw pet food diet.I wanted to look into this way of feeding our pets and check out the pros and cons.

The raw pet food diet is not anew idea. It's been around for quiet a while and its advocates say that because it most closely matches what our animals would eat in the wild, it's good for their health and well-being. A study often cited is one that was conducted by Dr. Francis Pottenger from 1932 to1942. In this study, he used more than 900 cats to show the effects of a cooked vs. raw diet on the health of cats.

His study concluded that an all-raw food diet of meat, milk, and cod liver oil produced the healthiest cats with the healthiest
offspring with the fewest defects.

Some believe that today's over-processed, heated, colored, preserved pet foods do not provide the best nutrition for our cats and dogs. In fact, they think these commercial pet foods, which are higher in carbohydrates than cats or dogs need in their diets, cause a number of health problems, including obesity, diseases, weak immune systems, and birth defects.

The raw food diet, referred to as the Bones And Raw Food (BARF) diet,suggests feeding raw muscle and organ meat from chicken, beef, and lamb, raw bones (poultry neck and back), and adding some supplements such as cod liver oil, vitamin E, enzymes, and Taurine.

There are many other important supplements that cats and dogs need which would also be added, based on which animal you are feeding, their health,age, whether they are pregnant, etc.

If you're thinking of feeding your pet the BARF diet, you should take a trip to your vet to get a thorough checkup to make sure your pet is healthy. Then, consult with your vet about the possibility of feeding your pet a raw food diet. Get their thoughts about it, and also conduct your own investigation on the subject. There are plenty of books you can purchase or resources online that you can look up.

If you decide to try the raw pet food diet, you should get high-quality, fresh raw meat from a trusted butcher rather than pre-
packaged meat in a grocery store. You should use the meat immediately, or freeze it,which can give the added benefit of killing bacteria. You should use safe and sanitary handling of raw meat and bones, including disinfecting all utensils and cutting boards used, and throwing away any uneaten meat after half an hour.

Again, there are books and online resources you can use to find many BARF recipes,including those that mix in supplements to ensure proper nutrition and health. Some people like to add fresh fruits and vegetables to the BARF diet, but others see it as unnecessary since cats and dogs do not seek out those foods naturally in the wild.

If you don't have time to prepare all the meals for your pet,there are pre-packaged, dehydrated or frozen, raw meat meals available for purchase.

As with any issue,there are people on both sides, with some people citing the dangers of bacteria such as e-coli and salmonella that could be in the raw meat. In addition to the bacteria being a risk for the animal, humans can also be exposed to the same risk. Some veterinarians do not endorse a raw food diet because of the potential life-threatening nature of these bacteria.

There are also those who say that comparing wild dogs and cats with our domesticated pets is not valid, that our pets can't digest raw foods the way wild animals can. Raw bones especially are thought to be a health risk. (Note: Raw bones are soft and chewy. When bones are cooked is when they become brittle and can splinter, which is very dangerous.)

As with anything to do with the health and well-being of your pet, it's up to you to research what you think will be best, and also consult with your veterinarian about the subject. Your pets depend on you to make the right decisions for them.

For a time I considered the raw food diet for my dog Storm, but continued to feed a holistic dog food. I have not totally ruled out the raw food diet in the future, but for now I feed a very high quality commercial dog food which is low carb, has quality human grade meats and grains, probiotics, and many other beneficial ingredients.

Research for yourself and make an educated decision.

References:
http://cats.about.com/cs/nutrition/a/rawfooddiet.htm
http://www.living-foods.com/articles/rawpetfood.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francis_Pottenger
http://www.healthypet.com/library_view.aspx?ID=121
http://www.pettogethers.com/PowerReports/Understanding
HomemadeDiets.aspx

Taking Care of an Abscess on your pets

Rick Delgado — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 18:32:00 GMT

One of my clients had an especially exciting day a few weeks ago, but not in an upbeat way. She was prepared to spend the day thinking about doing something else, but instead had to divert her attention to one of her cats.

First thing in the morning, she noticedthat every time she looked at him, her cat was licking his rump area.It's normal to see your cat cleaning himself, but if he continuallylicks at one particular area, it's not normal. She tried to look atthe area, but he wasn't very cooperative, and the fur made it hardto spot anything.

She called the vet andmade an appoinment for later in the day to get him checked. Shewatched him in the meantime, noting that other than the licking, heseemed okay. He was eating, drinking, and going potty just fine.

At the vet appointment later that day, the doctor lightly anesthetizedher very hostile and uncooperative cat and shaved his rump toreveal the problem - an abscess.

WHAT'S AN ABSCESS?

An abscess is a wound that has become infected, filled withpus and fluids. It is painful and can rupture, leaving an open sore.Most abscesses in cats are caused by other cats in a fight, or ifyour cat plays outside, by other critters such as squirrels orgophers, or even by a foreign object like a wood splinter.

When a cat suffers a bite or scratch, the skin might heal, butthe bacteria that was introduced into the cat is trapped under theskin. That's where the trouble begins. The cat's immune system triesto fight the infection with white blood cells and proteins, butbecause all of that is trapped, the area swells up and causes pain. Ifleft untreated, an abscess can sometimes heal on its own, but it canalso get worse and cause blood poisoning, illness, and even death.

HOW IS IT TREATED?

My client got to watch as the vettreated her cat's abscess. The vet shaved all the fur around theabscess and squeezed the area to release as much pus and fluid aspossible. That is the first step in getting rid of the abscess -releasing all that pus so that the wound can begin healing.

He then cleaned it out thoroughly and applied medication directlyto the wound. He injected antibiotics into the cat, and alsoprescribed antibiotic tablets that her cat had to take for 10 days.The abscess wasn't that bad, so the doctor didn't have to insert asurgical drain. He instructed her to keep an eye on him, and if hiswound was still draining a bit, wipe it with a little hydrogen peroxide.

To prevent her cat from licking his openwound and reinfecting it, he placed a plastic Elizabethan collar aroundhis neck. After that, he was ready to go home and get better!

RECOVERY

For the next 10 days, my client fed her cat themedicine, cleaned his wound with peroxide when necessary, and kepta close eye on his rump and his behavior. He moped around for a fewdays because he disliked the collar, but he didn't seem to be in painand ate, drank, and went potty as usual.

She kept his collar onuntil she saw that the wound was almost 100% healed because she knew thatas soon as she took it off, he would begin grooming himself.

About 2 weeks after the vet visit, the cat was out of the collar,and the only evidence that remained of his abscess experience was ashaved behind.

WATCH FOR SYMPTOMS

Myclient was lucky in that she spotted some unusual behavior quicklyand got her cat treated before he became very ill. It always helps tobe observant with your pet(s), noting their usual habits andbehaviors. If your pet shows any of the following symptoms, you maywant to take him to the vet for a checkup.

Sleeping more than usual
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Fever
Limping
Signs of pain when you touch him
Loss of interest in usual play/activity

References:
http://www.thepetcenter.com/sur/abcat.html
http://www.catsofaustralia.com/cat-abscess.htm
http://www.geocities.com/pndtpa/glossary/abscess.htm

Moving With Your Pet: Part 2

Rick Delgado — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 20:41:00 GMT

I addressed moving with your pet(s) in a previous post, so now I'd like to add to that and discuss moving to another state or even another country.

A RECAP

First, a few reminders from my previous article:

Animals can sense your moods and emotions. The pending move may stress you out, but try to keep a positive attitude.
Make sure your pet's identification collar/tags are up-to-date with your new information. If your pet has an embedded ID chip, make sure to update the information with the company that holds your pet's information as soon as you can.
Be sure to get your pet's records so you can give them to your new vet.

You should read Moving with Your Pets: Part 1 before reading any further.

MOVING TO A NEW CITY/STATE

Now, if your moving plans are taking you out of the state, check with the Sate Department of Agriculture for any laws/regulations about pet transport for your new home state. Also check with your new home city for restrictions such as leash laws, and any limits on the number and types of pets you can own.

For example, the city of Fremont has specific regulations about obtaining a license for cats and dogs. (See http://www.ci.fremont.ca.us/Permits/OtherPermits/PetLicense.htm for details.) You should find out as much as you can via the internet and/or by calling the city clerk's office.

One thing you will most likely need for any destination is a rabies certification and a recent health certificate from your vet that is no more than 10 days old.

Whether you're transporting your pet via car or plane, it's best not to sedate them. It's better to get them used to being in a crate and going for short trips well in advance of your move to ease anxiety. Feed them only a light meal about 6 hours before their journey on a plane. Don't give them water too close to flight time. Some water about 3 hours before their flight should suffice.

For a car trip, feed your pet a few hours before you head out. If it's a long trip, schedule periodic stops for bathroom breaks. Be sure you have a supply of food, water, towels, and any medication. You might also want to include a first aid kit (for yourself as well your pet!). If your trip has you staying at a motel, check beforehand for motels that allow pets and what their rules are.

ALOHA!

If you're moving pets to Hawai'i, be sure you check (and double check) what you will need to do. One information source is the State of Hawai'i website.

See http://www.hawaii.gov/hdoa/ai/aqs/info for animal quarantine information.

In the past, Hawai'i used to keep pets quarantined for months. But today, with proper planning and by obtaining all the necessary paperwork, you can get your pets in and out of the quarantine station within a few hours. There are specific and strict requirements for this including obtaining rabies certificates, blood tests, and a health certificate.

Here are some FAQs about the 5-day or less quarantine program: http://www.hawaii.gov/hdoa/ai/aqs/faq5.

Next, find out what you will need to do for your airplane trip. Check your airline's website and also call them to ensure you have all the requirements covered. Note that no airline will transport pets in the passenger cabin when traveling from the Mainland to Hawai'i. Small animals can be checked in as baggage, but larger animals will have to go as cargo.

The airlines will have specific requirements for the type and size of crate you will have to use for each animal.

A friend of mine recently got firsthand experience transporting two cats and a dog from California to Hawai'i on Hawaiian Airlines and reports that things went pretty smoothly. She did have a problem earlier when, after several phone calls, the airline reps neglected to tell her that there was an embargo on transporting animals during the summer months because of the heat. She had to change the pets' transport date from June to late October.

She made reservations for each pet when she bought the ticket for herself because the airline allowed only a limited number of animals on each flight. Hours before the flight's departure, she took her dog for check-in at the airport's cargo area. Then, she went to the regular counter for the airline and checked in her suitcases and the two cats. For each animal, she had all the proper paperwork on hand and ready to show.

A few details:

My friend's flight left San Francisco at 8:30 a.m., but she had to have her dog at the cargo area no later than 5:30 A.M.
After she checked the cats in, she had to accompany them down to where they would wait to be loaded onto the plane. The workers there asked her to take the cats out of their crates so they could check the crates themselves.
The bottom of the crates were lined with soft pads for comfort. My friend put "LIVE ANIMALS" stickers on the crates and also printed up a photo ID to affix to the back of the crate. Each ID had a photo, the pet's name, sex, breed, ID Chip #, her cell phone number, and the pet's destination address.

Once she arrived in Honolulu Airport in 'Oahu, where the Airport Animal Quarantine Holding Facility is located, she walked from the airport terminal to the station. The walk took just a few minutes. She did have to ask directions because although there was a sign for the station, it didn't indicate exactly which way to go.

Once at the station, she had to hit a buzzer to be let in. She presented her paperwork and waited for her animals to be brought out. My friend had a bit of a problem here. There was some miscommunication and she had to wait longer than necessary for her pets. Just be sure to be friendly, but persistent, when checking on the status of your pets.

My friend was told by one worker that the pets were not even there yet and that it would take at least 45 minutes to process them. About 15 minutes later, another worker told her they had been there all along and ready to go.

Be sure to have transportation ready to take your pets. The station won't release them if you don't have a vehicle or luggage cart. My friend called a taxi that was large enough to carry all animals. (The taxi's business card was posted at the station.) The kind driver took her to a local dog park so her dog could finally get a potty break and some fresh air and water. The cats were a little scared, so they just wanted to stay in their crates.

Since my friend's final destination was the Big Island, their odyssey wasn't quite over yet. After the dog's potty break, they drove to the cargo area at the airport to drop off the dog, then returned to the terminal and checked the cats in as luggage again at the airline counter.

She gave herself plenty of time (about 7 hours) during the layover in 'Oahu to accomplish all of this. That turned out to be much needed extra time because her flight into 'Oahu was delayed for 1 and 1/2 hours, and it took quite some time to wait for and pick up the animals at the quarantine station, give the dog a potty break, present papers to both the cargo area and check-in counter, and go through airport security again.

Once she arrived at Kona International Airport, the pets were released to her along with her luggage. It was a very long day, but it was all worth it when she was able to introduce her pets to her new home in paradise.

Note: Although this pertained to moving to Hawaii, the same processes and precautions would be true for moving to Alaska as well.

A NEW COUNTRY

If you're moving to another country, check with that country's consulate for any regulations or fees. For example, if you go to http://www.sf.us.emb-japan.go.jp/archives/PR_e/pr_04_1109.htm you can see an overview of the quarantine regulations for Japan.

Like moves to other cities or states, you will most likely need rabies and health certificates. There may also be quarantine laws you'll have to look into. The best thing you can do is plan well in advance for the move, especially if you have to deal with quarantine issues.

As for your plane trip, check with the airline you'll be taking since rules and restrictions may vary from one to another.

I know this is a lot of information, but the more homework and preparation you do before your actual move, the better everything will be for your and your pet(s)!

Moving With Your Pets: Part 1

Rick Delgado — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:33:00 GMT

Moving your household from one place to another can be a frustrating, exhausting, and stressful experience. There's all the organizing, packing, cleaning, transporting to deal with, not to mention all the unexpected surprises that inevitably hit at the worst times. Having just made a move myself, I know!

If moving is stressful on us, think of how your pets will feel when you pack up their entire world and without any say in the matter, get whisked away to a new, unfamiliar place.

To keep stress to a minimum for your pets and yourself, here are a few tips. These tips address moves that are not far and are accomplished by driving only. In a future newsletter, I'll address moves that involve going across state lines or even out of the country.

While you're packing your things for the move try to keep your pets' areas (food area, litter area, bedding, etc.) the same for as long as you can. Also try to keep as much of their daily routines intact.
Animals can sense your moods and emotions. The pending move may stress you out, but try to keep a positive attitude.
Make sure your pet's identification collar/tags are up-to-date with your new information. If your pet has an embedded ID chip, make sure to update the information with the company that holds your pet's information as soon as you can.
If your move takes you away from your usual veterinarian, be sure to get your pet's records so you can give them to your new vet.
When you begin your move, keep your pets' safety in mind. It's not uncommon for pets to run off when a door is left open and they are left unattended. If you need to move in and out with the door open, keep your pets in a carrier or crate. If your pets aren't used to being in an enclosure, get them accustomed to it before moving day.

You can put soft bedding or an item of clothing with your scent on it into the crate or carrier and leave it open. Your pet is sure to investigate. You can also entice them into the space using treats. If they are used to the crate/carrier being a part of the household, they won't be as stressed when they have to go into it on moving day.

If you're having professional movers help, you might want to place your pets (in their carriers) in an empty room and keep the door closed. Make sure everyone knows not to enter the room so the pets are kept secure.
Whether you're moving using your car, a truck, or van, keep your pets secure in their carriers in the passenger areas. For dogs that are accustomed to it, a safety harness can be used instead of a crate. Never put animals in the trunk of a car, the bed of a truck, or in the back of a van.

And never leave them in the vehicle. You've probably heard it many times, but I think it's important to emphasize how dangerous it is to leave your pets in a vehicle. The outside temperature may seem okay to you, but it gets many times hotter inside a vehicle. Your pets should be the last in before you start driving, and the first out when you reach your destination.

Make sure to have your pet's items (toys, food bowl, litter pan, etc.) in the new place before they arrive. It will certainly reassure them to see/smell their items there. Let them explore, but keep an eye on them to keep them out of trouble! My new kittens had a great time exploring (more like getting into) the many boxes in our new home .
After your move, keep up their daily routines, such as feeding and exercise, at the usual times. Keeping some things the same will make your pets feel more at ease.
Once you're in your new home, keep an eye on your pets so they don't slip out an open door. It's all new to them, so they might get confused when they get outside alone and try to go back to their old home.

Self Vaccinating Your Pets

Rick Delgado — Wed, 23 Jun 2010 04:30:00 GMT

A normal part of pet ownership today is ensuring that they get their vaccinations, along with routine vet checkups. Something I hadn't considered is vaccinating my pets myself. There are, however, people who self-vaccinate, so I thought I'd address the issue.

I have found some information and various opinions on the subject. Vaccinations and needles are available for purchase by anyone. There are several online sources for vaccines and needles. Of course, if purchased and administered yourself, vaccinations will be less expensive than going to the vet. Cost seems to be the main reason some people consider self-vaccinating their pets.

If you are considering this alternative, you should first consult your veterinarian. You will also need to get a prescription from your vet to prove to the retailer that you are buying these drugs for your pets. You cannot buy vaccines without this, and your vet's info. The retailer should contact your vet to confirm this as well.

Talk to him/her about your pet's lifestyle, health, and any unique needs. You should find out the different vaccines your pet will need, as well as those that are not necessary. For example, cats usually receive "core" vaccines which include feline rabies virus, feline panleukopenia virus (FPV), feline calicivirus (FCV), and feline herpesvirus 1 (FHV1).

Dogs receive the core vaccines of canine rabies virus, canine parvovirus (CPV), canine distemper virus (CDV), and canine adinovirus-2 (CAV-2). You can ask your vet to instruct you on how and when to administer shots and talk about possible side effects and complications.

Note that in the U.S., all states require rabies vaccines for all pets. Individual states and cities may have other requirements that you should investigate. For example, in Fremont, CA I must obtain a pet license for each pet. To do that, I have to submit a rabies certificate signed by a veterinarian.

In making your decision to self-vaccinate or not, you should consider that your vet not only administers shots, but examines your pet for overall health. This is something you can't do at home. As with any health-related topic where your pet is concerned, learn all you can, consult with your vet, and make the decision based on what is best for you pet.

If you don't want to self-vaccinate, but find the vet fees too high, find out if yor vet, any local pet stores, or local humane society offices offer free or reduced-fee clinics.

Why Do Cats Purr, and What Does it Mean?

Rick Delgado — Wed, 23 Jun 2010 04:19:00 GMT

One of the best things about owning a cat (or having one own you!) is having him or her curl up on your lap and purr to show contentment. At least that's how most of us interpret a cat's purr. Because cats make that rolling, melodic sound - high or low, smooth and constant, or choppy and rough - when they are experiencing what we think are pleasant sensations, such as a tummy rub, we assume they purr when they're happy.

Most of us have experienced the sounds of cats purring in relaxing, positive situations, but sometimes, cats will purr when they are hurt or distressed. Female cats have been known to purr while giving birth.

There are theories floating out there about the meaning of a cat's purr, but there are no concrete facts. Could purring be an expression of happiness, to comfort themselves or others, or as a form of communication with other cats and with humans? No one knows for sure.

With all these unknowns, there is one fact that studies have revealed - that cats purr in a frequency range which has shown to promote bone growth and healing (between 22.4 to 30.2 hertz). So, perhaps cats purr also to help heal themselves when they are hurt, or just to keep healthy in general.

Elizabeth von Muggenthaler presented "The Felid Purr: A Healing Mechanism?" an in-depth look at the purr's healing power at the 142nd annual Acoustical Society of America, American Institute of Physics, International Conference in 2001. You can read this interesting study at www.animalvoice.com/catpur.htm.

Another mystery about cats purring is how they do it. Doctors and scientists still haven't figured out exactly how cats make that endearing noise. Some think that cats purr by vibrating their vocal chords, while others think it could be the blood vessels.

We may never find out exactly why or how our cats purr, it certainly won't take away from the joy we receive when cuddling with them.

To Be a Cat

Rick Delgado — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 01:42:00 GMT

I found this great quote about cats.

"I think it would be great to be a cat! You come and go as you please. People always feed and pet you. They don't expect much of you. You can play with them, and when you've had enough, you go away. You pick and choose who you want to be around. You can't ask for more than that."

Patricia McPherson

Tips for Great Pet Photos

Rick Delgado — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 17:44:00 GMT

Most pet owners view their companions as family members, so it's no surprise that having that perfect pet photo of our pooch or kitty is just as important as having one of your sweetheart, your kids, or mom and dad to show off to others. Here are a few tips on how to get that perfect shot of your beloved pet.

LIGHTING

Most of us take photos for fun, not as a profession, so our equipment can be pretty basic. Although you may only have a point and shoot camera, you can get pretty nice pet photos by making sure you have the best lighting possible.

Natural outdoor light is the best. If you can't photograph your pet outside, pick a spot indoors that provides plenty of natural lighting. Early morning or late evening is best for natural light.

Don't use a flash as it is too harsh and will cause the dreaded "red eye." If you have a red eye filter on your camera, use it.

It's best to photograph on an overcast, but bright day instead of a sunny day. Direct sunlight will be too bright and there will be too much contrast between light and dark features. If you do photograph on a sunny day, be sure to find a shady spot to take your photos.

An exception to the no-flash and no-direct-sunlight rule: some very dark-coated animals might do well with a flash or sunlight to bring out the different shades and textures in their hair. Also, if it's difficult to get your animal to sit still, you may want to use the flash. If you can adjust it, try it at the lowest setting and be sure to turn off the auto red-eye feature which delays the flash.

POSITION

Get down to your pet's level. They're a lot shorter and smaller than we are, so don't be in a position where you are pointing your camera down toward them. Sit or crouch down, or even lie down to get the best shot.

Don't be afraid to fill the frame with your pet. Zoom in for tight head shots or make sure their whole body fills the frame.

Keep the background in mind. You probably don't want to shoot your all-black cat on a dark couch. Solid colors are usually a better choice than very textured or multi-colored backgrounds because they can distract from the star of the pet photo.

EXPRESSION

I'm sure we all see our pets as having different expressions. Try to capture that special look only your companion has by making sure he or she is comfortable, relaxed, and having fun. This shouldn't be an ordeal for them.

You can get your pet's attention by using their favorite treats and toys, or making silly noises to them.

Don't forget that candid shots can be the best ones. Let your pet loose to do what he/she wishes with a toy, with a treat, or with an animal or human friend. If you can, increase the ISO settings of your camera to a fast shutter speed to better capture your animal in motion. This may increase graininess in the photo, but you will have captured the shot.

If your camera's various sounds (beeps) distract your pet, turn the audio alerts off.

Experiment! Try different angles. Use unusual props or backgrounds.

PATIENCE

As with anything pet-related, you have to practice a lot of patience. Be gentle and have a happy attitude about what you're doing. If you pet just doesn't want to cooperate, just end the session and try another time. With some practice, and trial and error, you'll be able to produce a pet photo you'll be happy to show off.

Send in your best tips for taking great pet photos.

Have You Met an Angry Cat?

Rick Delgado — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 21:40:00 GMT

"Some people say man is the most dangerous animals on the planet. Obviously those people have never met an angry cat."

-Lillian Johnson

Ode to Domestic Cats

Rick Delgado — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 18:57:00 GMT

"Of all domestic animals, the cat is the most expressive. His face is capable of showing a wide range of expressions. His tail is a mirror of his mind. His gracefulness is surpassed only by his agility. And, along with all these, he has a sense of humor."

Walter Chandoha