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Vol. 3
Issue 5

The Woof Pack Times Newsletter

by: Richard Delgado

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Hi [first name],

In this issue:

1) "Crate Training Your Dog"

2) "Picking the Right Kinds of Treats for Your Pet"

3) "Why Does My Cat Poop Outside the Box?"

4) "Tell Us What You Think!"

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1) "Crate Training Your Dog"

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A client of The Woof Pack in Newark, CA asked me
about crating a dog. She felt it is cruel to put
the dog in the crate where they are confined in
such a small area. Well, it could be cruel, if it
it is not done properly. Crate training your dog is a
great training technique, and definitely has its
benefits.

Thanks Jeanine, and here is your answer.

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One of the best things you can do for your dog
and for you is to integrate crate training
into your lives. It takes time and patience, but
it will be well worth it. Some people protest the
use of crates and think it's cruel. Remember that
they're thinking in terms of being human, not a dog.
We humans might not like being in an enclosed space,
but dogs think differently. If properly trained,
dogs will think positively about their crates,
viewing them as safe havens just for them.

The idea behind crate training is that the dog
should view the crate as his den, somewhere
where he feels safe and comfortable. It's a place
he doesn't mind going to when you ask him to, or
when he just feels like it.

For you, this is a safe, convenient way to confine
and control your dog. The crate is a great tool
for times when you are out of the house and need
to leave your dog unsupervised. And with your
dog used to a crate, traveling in a car while
in a crate will be no problem.

First, choose an appropriate crate for your dog.
You want the crate to become your dog's "den," so
pick one that he can stand up and turn around in
comfortably. But you don't want it too large so
that he might be tempted to use one corner as a
toilet. Place it somewhere where it's quiet,
but also in a room where he can still be part of
the family.

Introduce your dog to its crate by leaving it out
with the door open. Put a soft piece of material,
such as a towel or blanket, inside. You can also
put his favorite toys inside.

Entice your dog into investigating his new den by
placing a treat into it. When he does go inside,
give him plenty of praise and affection. You always
want your dog to associate pleasant, positive feelings
with the crate.

Leave the crate door open in the beginning. Just
let your dog go in and out as he pleases. As time
goes on, use treats and a command, such as "crate
time," to show your dog you want him to enter the
crate.

You can feed your dog near or in the crate, creating
more positive association with the crate. While he's
eating, you can begin closing the door for a few
minutes at a time. Do this several times a day.

As your dog gets accustomed to the door being
closed, increase the time you have it closed.
Stay by the crate at first, then leave for a few
minutes at a time. Remember not to do too much too
soon. Take your time and be patient. This whole
process may take weeks.

When your dog can stay in the crate comfortably
and happily for a half an hour or more, you can
leave the house for a time. When you leave the
house and when you come home, don't make a big
production out of it. Keep arrivals and departures
low-key and quiet. Also crate the dog from time
to time when you're still in the house so your dog
doesn't think being crated means being alone.

If you've progressed to crating him at night,
you might want to keep the crate in or near your
bedroom so you can hear him make noise when he
needs to eliminate. When you do let him out, make
sure he knows it's just for a potty break. Take
him straight outside and give your usual command
for going potty.

If your dog is still a puppy, keep in mind that
he will need to go potty every two hours or so,
depending on his age. Since a dog will tend not
use his "den" as a toilet, you will have to pay
attention to the time your puppy spends in the
crate and let him out for potty breaks. The crate
is not a 'set it and forget it' type of deal. You
are responsible for the proper use of the crate and
the care for your dog.

Puppies younger than nine weeks should not be crated.
Always let your dog go potty before crating and
try not to crate dogs longer than six hours. Also, limit
the amount of water your dog drinks before going into
his crate. Let him drink, but allow him time to go potty
after drinking and before going into the crate.

If your dog cries when in the crate, and you have followed
all the rules about drinking water and making sure he has
done his potty, do not let him out. He is crying for attention
and trying to manipulate you. If you let him out,he will
figure out that if he wants to be let out, all he has to do
is cry. Let him out only when he has stopped crying. This will
be his reward.

Never use the crate as a punishment. You might be tempted to
send your dog into the crate as a "time out" when he's been
naughty, but that will only create problems and negative
association with the crate. Correct the bad behavior, replace
it with a good behavior, and carry on as normal. The crate is
not a replacement for proper training.

If you need help with crate training, ask a reputable dog
trainer.

References:
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/crate-train.pdf
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html
http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/dog_behavior_tip_sheets/crate_training.html
http://www.dogbehavioronline.com/crate_training.html

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2) "Picking the Right Kinds of Treats for Your Pet"

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One of the best parts of being a pet owner is giving
our dog or cat his favorite treats. But as the
owner, we're responsible for making sure that the
special treat is safe for our pet to consume.

* Store-bought treats
There are plenty of choices in pet food or grocery
stores when it comes to treats. Although it's tempting
to assume that since it's on a store shelf, it must
be safe, do take the time to check out the ingredients.

Try to avoid treats that have a lot of by-products,
preservatives, artificial flavors and/or colors,
and fillers. Avoid treats that use too much corn,
wheat, and soy. Dogs and cats are meat eaters and
do better with meat as their source of protein rather
than grains. Some believe that these cheaper sources
of grain protein also cause too much stress on dogs and
cats' digestive systems, and that they cause allergies.

Many treats taste great to our pets because they are
high in fat, calories, and artificial ingredients. I
usually avoid treats that contain many ingredients
that I don't recognize. And just like human treats,
moderation is important.

One popular item commonly sold is pig ears. Although
dogs love them, I don't like giving it to them.
For one thing, they are very hard and brittle,
which can cause problems such as an intestinal
obstruction, choking, or upset stomach. They are
also high in fat, and may contain artificial
ingredients. There has also been past problems of pig
ears being a source of Salmonella bacteria.

For pet treats, keeping it simple is best. One of the
treats I like to give my cats is freeze-dried salmon.
It's just salmon, no additives, fillers, or artificial
ingredients. And they love it!

* "People" food
It's hard to resist giving your pet just a little
bit of your own food at dinner time when he is just
sitting there, staring at you. Most people do acknowledge
that feeding table scraps to pets is not a good habit
to create, so you should avoid this practice.

Some people like to give their dogs bones. Although
there is some debate about the safety of giving dogs
bones of any kind, some people think raw bones are
an acceptable addition to your dog's diet. Remember
that you should NEVER give your pet cooked bones,
especially chicken bones. When cooked, bones become
brittle and dangerous for your dog to eat. It can cause
choking and internal blockages.

Raw bones are actually softer, and chewier. They will not
splinter. Just be careful of what part of the bone you give
your pets. If you want to give your dog a raw bone, consult
with your vet first. And if you do decide to go ahead with
it, be sure to supervise your dog while he chews on it. Even
though raw bones are safer, some dogs will not chew them,
but will rather swallow big chunks of bone, which is not
safe. If your dog swallows big chunks of the bone, or any
other chew treat or toy, then do not give them that treat
or bone. It is far too dangerous.

With all the different options, it can be difficult
to decide which treats are the best for your pet. And
a lot of treats do not even list ingredients, such as
the bulk treats. When in doubt about a treat's
ingredients, play it safe and avoid it.

Here is a list of items you will definitely want
to avoid because of toxicity and/or digestive problems.

AVOID
Chocolate (and anything else with caffeine)
Onion, garlic
Cooked bone
Artificial sweeteners (in gum/candy)
Grape
Raisin
Milk/dairy products
Nuts (especially Macadamia and Walnuts)
Mushroom
Avocado
Raw egg
Raw potato
Tomato
Alcohol

Here are some treats that are okay to give pets:
Lean meat
Apple, orange, banana, watermelon
Carrot, green bean, cucumber, zuchinni
Baked potato
Baked bread
Cooked rice/pasta

References:
http://www.k911.biz/Petsafety/ToxicDogTreats.htm
http://www.feednfarm.com/petsandpoison.html#anchor_13212
http://www.my-dog.info/dogs_and_food/pigs_ears.asp
http://www.wisegeek.com/which-foods-are-toxic-to-cats-and-dogs.htm
http://ezinearticles.com/?How-Nutritious-is-Your-Pet-Food?&id=888573
http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/24544541/

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3) "Why Does My Cat Poop Outside the Box?"

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As a cat-owner, it's only a matter of time before you
discover that your precious pet has left you an unpleasant
surprise somewhere on the floor, usually not too far from
his litter box. By surprise, I mean a piece of poop. I
asked several cat owners and all have had this happen at
one time or another.

The first time I encountered this situation, I wondered
if my cat had done it on purpose. But I quickly concluded
that it wasn't a malicious act, but rather just an accident.
I thought this because it was just a little bit. It wasn't
as if the cat squatted and left a big pile for me to find.
Plus, my cat has long fur, so I thought maybe it just
got stuck on the fur on her rear end and it just fell
off outside the box.

To avoid this once-in-a-while event, you can always
trim the fur around your cat's rear end. Be careful and
use clippers that are meant to trim animal fur. If you're
not sure if you can do this yourself, take your cat to
a groomer for a trim.

If your cat is leaving you surprises that don't seem
like accidents, you should have the cat checked by
your vet to eliminate the possibility of a medical
condition. Sometimes an illness will cause a cat to
urinate or defecate outside his litter box. And if
you have an un-neutered male cat, he might spray urine
to mark his territory. For most cats, having them
neutered will halt the problem.

If nothing is wrong medically, think about what the
cat might be unhappy about. One cat owner I know changed
the litter she used for her cat, which the cat hated.
She tried meowing about her displeasure for about half
a day and when that got no response, she pooped on the
lady's comforter. At first the owner was angry and
disgusted. But after thinking about it, realized it was
her fault. She changed the litter back to the old
stuff and the cat went back to using the litter with
no problem.

If you haven't switched kitty litter brands, check to
make sure the litter is cleaned often enough. Sometimes
cats will balk at using a litter box that is too dirty.
And every cat is different. Some cats will use the box
even if it's slightly dirty and others will turn away
unless it's cleaned daily. Also be careful of strong
scents. If you use a litter that has too much perfume
or use a strong-smelling cleaner to clean out the box,
that might turn your cat off and away.

If your box has a cover, try taking it off. Some cats
don't like to feel too enclosed when going to the
bathroom. Or maybe the box is too small in the first
place. Replace it with a bigger box and see if it makes
a difference.

Some cats will avoid using the box if it's not in a
good location. If there is too much foot traffic around
the box, the cat might not feel comfortable enough
to use it. Just like us, cats like a little privacy.
And if you have two or more cats, you might want to
consider getting several boxes and putting them in
different areas of the house.

Sometimes emotional stress can cause a cat to stop using
the litter box. Try to pinpoint what might be stressing
your cat and eliminate the cause if you can. Cats like
routine. They can get stressed if you just move their
litter box, so you can imagine that they might get
pretty upset if you move to another house, add a new
pet or person to the household, or even if you're under
some stress yourself.

One cat owner I know was worried when she introduced
a new cat into the household. She thought her first
cat would get angry/stressed and stop using the litter.
So to make the transition easier, she made sure to
reassure her first cat constantly, playing with him,
giving him extra affection and attention, being more
liberal with the treats, and it seemed to work. The
cat was annoyed as soon as he saw the new cat, but
then adjusted to the situation fairly quickly because
he loved the positive attention he was getting while
the new cat was in the house.

If your cat is deliberately using other parts of your
home as a toilet, he will most likely re-use spots.
You can help stop that cycle by making the cat's
favorite spots undesirable. The scent left by the cat
will draw it back to the same place over and over, so
make sure to clean the area thoroughly and use a good
enzymatic cleanser made to eliminate pet odors. Don't
use ammonia-based cleaners because ammonia smells
like cat urine, and will draw your cat back to the spot.

You can try different deterrents like placing aluminum foil
or wax paper where the cat went (they don't like the feel
of it under their paws). Cats don't like the smell of
citrus, so you might want to place citrus-scented items
in the area. You may try double-sided tape, and there are
several alarm deterrents, citronella deterrents, and other
products that you can try.

As unpleasant as it may be to have our cats eliminate outside
of the litter box, remember that punishing your cat by yelling,
hitting, making loud noises, or squirting him with water
won't solve the bad bathroom habits. There is sure to
be a reason behind your cat's behavior and it's up to
you to figure out what is wrong and fix the problem.

References: http://www.xmission.com/~emailbox/litterbox.htm
http://www.i-pets.com/rpet26.html

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4) "Tell Us What You Think!"

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We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is
just one issue, with much more important information
coming in future months.

Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for
upcoming issues to us at:

rdelgado@thewoofpack.com

Your feedback matters to us!

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Copyright 2008 by The Woof Pack.
All rights reserved.

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