May 2007 - Vol. 2 Issue 2



by: Richard Delgado



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Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

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In this issue:



1) "The Correct Way to Stop a Dog Fight"



2) "The Importance of Crate Training"



3) "How to Properly Introduce a New Pet to an Existing Pet"



4) "The Sad Truth About Pet Food"



5) "Tell Us What You Think!"





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1) "The Correct Way to Stop a Dog Fight"



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Have you ever witnessed a dog fight? Sometimes, they start and

end in a flash, other times they can last for quite a long time.

There are varying degrees of dog fights, depending on the dogs

involved. Sometimes one dog is the aggressor and the other

is just at the wrong place and the wrong time. Other times, two

dogs may each be equally aggressive, trying to display their dominance.



There are many ideas out there about how to break up a dog fight.

Of course, as a Pet First Aid  Instructor, I teach my students

never to get in between two dogs in a fight. You must always

think of keeping yourself safe. If you get injured, you will not

be able to help your dog, and depending on the dog in question,

any attack on you could be disastrous, even fatal.



With that said, I want to go over some of the ideas out there about

how you can break up a dog fight, if you ever needed to, keeping

in mind that this is a very dangerous situation you should avoid.



The most effective and safest way to break up a dog fight is to have two

people involved. Each person should grab the rear legs of each dog,

and lift up and move back. The dogs will be forced to walk on their

front legs, as in a wheelbarrow position, and won't be able to fight.

This also keeps the dangerous end away from you.



After you've pulled the dogs apart in that wheelbarrow position, do not

let go, but begin swinging them slowly around in a circle. This will

force the dogs to walk sideways with their front legs so they won't fall

on their faces, and will also prevent them from turning around and

striking at you.



Now that you've gotten them apart, don't let go. If you do, they will

likely charge each other and start fighting again, or they might turn

on you. The best thing to do then would be to put them in separate

enclosures or kennels.



If you are alone and feel you absolutely have to break up the fight,

you should use a leash like a lariat (threading the latch end through

the handle) to loop around the loin area of one dog, drag it backwards

and secure it to something solid like a fence. Then, proceed with the

wheelbarrow method described previously on the second dog to get it

away from the leashed dog.



As for alternative methods, some people say dousing one or both dogs

with water works, if you have enough and if you have it available.

Trouble is, you probably will not have enough, or any, when a dog

fight breaks out. You would need a large bucket full of water, or a

water hose to douse the dogs with as soon as they start fighting.



One reader wrote in that someone told her that they grabbed a flashlight

and shined it into the dog's eyes, and this made the dog stop fighting.

I do not know about the effectiveness of this method, and this is the

first I have ever heard of this.



Gouging the eyes of the dog is another thing that I have heard of.

I have heard that this works on most dogs, but you are putting your

hands near the dangerous end when you reach for the face.



Although there are several opinions on how to break up a dog fight, there

is only one proper, and safe way to do it. And always keep in mind that

your safety comes first.





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2) "The Importance of Crate Training"



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Puppy! Just the name sounds cute and cuddly. Almost everyone

loves the idea of holding and playing with a new pup, and most

new owners can't wait to integrate their precious pet into their

household.



But, as many find out the hard way, a puppy can be quite a handful.

Sure, they're cute as can be, but they can also be willful, mischievous,

and downright destructive.



One of the best ways to avoid the frustrations of new puppy ownership,

and one of the best gifts you can give yourself and your new pet is to

crate train him. Crate training takes some discipline, but it's well

worth the time and effort in the long run. It is probably the best way

to potty train your puppy, and it will come in handy in situations

like transporting your pet.



First, get your puppy an appropriate crate. There are plastic and metal dog

crates available in different sizes. Choose the best size for the puppy,

one that is large enough for him to stand and turn around in.

Don't get one that is so large that your puppy can just go to one end

of the crate and go potty. You want the dog to view this as his new

home or den. Dogs will avoid soiling their own dens. If you get a

large crate in anticipation of your puppy growing, just block off the back

part of the crate. Remember to put a soft towel or blanket in the crate.



Encourage your pup to go into the crate with a treat and/or toy. An

interesting toy, such a Kong filled with peanut butter will keep

your dog engaged and happy in the crate. Leave the door open

and praise her when she goes inside and stays there. Don't force the pup

into the crate. Remember, this new home is supposed to be a

pleasant place for them, not a punishment. You can even feed the

puppy in the crate to create a positive association for her.



When the animal is comfortable being in the crate, close the

door and leave it closed for progressively longer periods of time.

Begin leaving the puppy alone in the closed crate and gradually

lengthen the time you are away from the crate.



If your puppy whines, don't immediately comfort her and let her out.

That just teaches them that if they whine, they get what they

want. Ignore the whining. (I know it's hard!) Let your puppy out

only when she is quiet and calm.



A well-exercised puppy will probably make it easier to crate

train. A tired puppy means a quieter, calmer puppy that will

more than likely just curl up and nap in the crate.



When you do let him out, don't make a big deal out of it. You

don't want puppy to think that being outside of the crate is

the better, happier situation.



One of the biggest challenges with a puppy is potty training.

Crate training makes this task much easier to handle. Young pups

need to eliminate every 2 to 4 hours. Let your puppy out of the crate

and outside to go potty on a regular schedule, like first thing

in the morning, after meals, and before bedtime. This teaches the

pup a routine that will last throughout his life.



When letting the pup out of the crate to eliminate, put her on a

leash and go immediately to the potty area. Give her 5 to 10

minutes to do her business. If she doesn't go, put her back into

the crate. If she goes, praise her, give her treats, and play with

her. You can even let her play in the house freely for a time,

with your supervision of course.



Keep your puppy crated during the night. You will probably have

to let them out in the middle of the night for a potty break,

but that hardship won't last too long. Puppies grow fast and

soon he will be able to hold it for longer periods of time.



As for leaving your puppy in the crate when you leave the house,

remember that young dogs need to eliminate every few hours,

so arrange to come home, have a neighbor check in, or hire a

pet sitter to make sure your puppy is taken care of.



Remember, the effort you put into crate training contributes

to a positive experience in dog ownership for you, as well

as to the overall happiness of your pet.





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3) "How to Properly Introduce a New Pet to an Existing Pet"



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Bringing home a new animal into a household that already has a pet

can go without a hitch or it can end up being a huge headache. Either

way, it's something that will probably make you a bit nervous, so here

are a few tips that might make it go smoothly for everyone.



First of all, no matter what type of pet you already have and what type

you want to bring home, make sure they are all healthy and up-to-date

on all their shots/vaccinations. You don't want to introduce a disease

or fleas into your home and to your existing pet!



The next thing you'll want to make sure of is that your attitude and the

emotions you project are 100 percent positive. Animals are very

sensitive to what we are feeling, so you'll want to have an upbeat,

confident attitude when introducing a new pet(s). No anxiety

or fear allowed!



After you've checked off those first two items, the next task you'll

want to tackle is to let your established pet get familiar with

the newcomer. Gradual introductions are the best and you

must supervise the animals at all times.



Ideally, the new pet should have a room of its own that is isolated

from the other pet(s). Introductions should always be supervised

and pets should not be loose. Have your dogs on leashes, behind

gates, or in crates. Cats should have their own crates too.



The sense of smell is much more important to dogs and cats than

it is to us. They meet, identify, and greet each other through scent.

You can use that in your introductions.



For cats, put the new kitty in a crate and after a time, take

the kitty out and leave it in a room by itself and take the empty

crate to the existing cat to smell and check out. Or, you can switch

the cats' sleeping blankets/beds so they can get used to each other's

scent.



You can even try feeding the cats with a door between

them (not too close at first!). They can associate something

pleasurable with the other's scent. Try feeding special treats on top

of a blanket or towel that the other cat has used.



Another method people use is to have the pets switch rooms. The

existing pet can stay in the new pet's room, while the new pet

gets to roam around the rest of the house. Again, they can

smell the other's scent and become accustomed to it.



After some time, you can prop the door open a bit or use a baby gate

so they can take a peek at each other, and eventually, you can

try putting them together in an open space with your supervision. You can

try holding your cat while a friend holds the newcomer in the same

room. If that goes well, you may want to let them roam freely with each

other. If they fight, that may mean you're going too quickly, so back

off a bit and start over.



For dogs, you can let a new dog into your backyard to smell your

existing dog's scent and leave some of his own. Then, put your

existing pet into the backyard to take a whiff.



You can use a crate to bring in a new pooch and let established

pooch smell and check him out. You can do the same with a

new cat. If your existing dog is crated, you can put the crates

across from each other and gradually bring them closer until

they are side by side.



Always use a leash on your pooch in a face-to-face meeting

with a new dog. You can hold your dog while a friend holds the

new dog. Let them sniff noses and greet each other. Watch for

signs/sounds of aggression. If you want to take extra precautions,

use a muzzle.



Keep the meetings short at the beginning until they get used to

each other. It's also best to have short, frequent meetings rather

than long, infrequent meetings.



Have treats readily available and give lots of praise to reinforce

good, friendly behavior. Be observant and watch for signs of

aggression or fear. The pets might not fight, but they may be

exhibiting negative behaviors that will not make for a harmonious

household.



Another great way to introduce dogs together is to walk them

together. You must be able to control them at all times,

and keep them separated until they, and you, feel

comfortable letting them sniff the same spot.

 

One key is to keep them moving forward and letting them

get used to walking on either side of your comfortably. As an

added precaution, it's a good idea to have a friend help you

walk them together, or just have the friend walk along while

you control both dogs.



When putting a dog and another small animal like a cat together,

it's probably best not to leave them alone together. If you leave

the house, crate or confine one or the other to ensure safety.



If you're introducing a cat and dog, it's best if your dog is

trained to listen and obey commands such as "sit," "stay," and

"leave it." You can start with having them smell each other

through a closed door, then gradually move onto a face-to-face

meeting in a controlled manner.



In the meeting, the dog should be on a leash and sitting next

to you, while a friend can be across the room with kitty. The dog

should be praised and rewarded for behaving and the meetings

should only last a few minutes at a time. Gradually increase the

time and also let the cat explore and check out the dog. The goal

is to get them to at least tolerate each other without fear or

aggression.



And remember, it's very important to keep in mind that animals can sense

your emotions. Believe and act as though the introductions are

going to go well, that you see all your animals getting along.

Don't act fearful or nervous. Act with positive energy and confidence.

That, along with taking reasonable precautions, will make it a

happy introduction for all.



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4) "The Sad Truth About Pet Food"



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With the unbelievable number of recent pet food recalls, I thought

it may be time to bring up the issue of pet foods again. There is

a sad truth about the pet food industry that not everyone knows

about. A lot of people in the pet industry do know some of these

facts, and this is why they feed an all human food diet, otherwise

known as a raw food diet.



There are things that you should know about the pet foods, and I

will refer you to someone who can explain it much better than I

can. There is documented proof of what he says, and he covers

them.



He may come across a little strong, but this is an important subject.

If you are not prepared for what he says, then DON'T READ IT! You

WILL be shocked. Let me repeat. If you are not prepared for what he

says, then DON'T READ IT! You WILL be shocked.



Not all of what goes on in the pet food industry applies to all foods,

but the nutritional portion of what he talks about rings true. You

absolutely MUST be aware of what you are feeding your pets.



To find out more, listen to what Andrew Lewis has to say by going to

his page at: s1salesaff.dogsecrets.hop.clickbank.net/.







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5)
"Tell Us What You Think!"



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We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is

just one issue, with much more important information

coming in future months.



Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for

upcoming issues to us at:



rdelgado@thewoofpack.com



Your feedback matters to us!





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Copyright 2007 by The Woof Pack.

All rights reserved.



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Comments

  • 6/25/2008 11:41 AM lauralie haikin wrote:
    rick,
    i thoroughly enjoy your well written, sincere and informative newsletters. Keep up the good work.
    Lauralie and John
    Reply to this
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