May 2007 - Vol. 2 Issue 2
by: Richard Delgado
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In this issue:
1) "The Correct Way to Stop a Dog Fight"
2) "The Importance of Crate Training"
3) "How to Properly Introduce a New Pet to an Existing Pet"
4) "The Sad Truth About Pet Food"
5) "Tell Us What You Think!"
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1) "The Correct Way to Stop a Dog Fight"
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Have you ever witnessed a dog fight? Sometimes, they start and
end in a flash, other times they can last for quite a long time.
There are varying degrees of dog fights, depending on the dogs
involved. Sometimes one dog is the aggressor and the other
is just at the wrong place and the wrong time. Other times, two
dogs may each be equally aggressive, trying to display their dominance.
There are many ideas out there about how to break up a dog fight.
Of course, as a Pet First Aid Instructor, I teach my students
never to get in between two dogs in a fight. You must always
think of keeping yourself safe. If you get injured, you will not
be able to help your dog, and depending on the dog in question,
any attack on you could be disastrous, even fatal.
With that said, I want to go over some of the ideas out there about
how you can break up a dog fight, if you ever needed to, keeping
in mind that this is a very dangerous situation you should avoid.
The most effective and safest way to break up a dog fight is to have two
people involved. Each person should grab the rear legs of each dog,
and lift up and move back. The dogs will be forced to walk on their
front legs, as in a wheelbarrow position, and won't be able to fight.
This also keeps the dangerous end away from you.
After you've pulled the dogs apart in that wheelbarrow position, do not
let go, but begin swinging them slowly around in a circle. This will
force the dogs to walk sideways with their front legs so they won't fall
on their faces, and will also prevent them from turning around and
striking at you.
Now that you've gotten them apart, don't let go. If you do, they will
likely charge each other and start fighting again, or they might turn
on you. The best thing to do then would be to put them in separate
enclosures or kennels.
If you are alone and feel you absolutely have to break up the fight,
you should use a leash like a lariat (threading the latch end through
the handle) to loop around the loin area of one dog, drag it backwards
and secure it to something solid like a fence. Then, proceed with the
wheelbarrow method described previously on the second dog to get it
away from the leashed dog.
As for alternative methods, some people say dousing one or both dogs
with water works, if you have enough and if you have it available.
Trouble is, you probably will not have enough, or any, when a dog
fight breaks out. You would need a large bucket full of water, or a
water hose to douse the dogs with as soon as they start fighting.
One reader wrote in that someone told her that they grabbed a flashlight
and shined it into the dog's eyes, and this made the dog stop fighting.
I do not know about the effectiveness of this method, and this is the
first I have ever heard of this.
Gouging the eyes of the dog is another thing that I have heard of.
I have heard that this works on most dogs, but you are putting your
hands near the dangerous end when you reach for the face.
Although there are several opinions on how to break up a dog fight, there
is only one proper, and safe way to do it. And always keep in mind that
your safety comes first.
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2) "The Importance of Crate Training"
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Puppy! Just the name sounds cute and cuddly. Almost everyone
loves the idea of holding and playing with a new pup, and most
new owners can't wait to integrate their precious pet into their
household.
But, as many find out the hard way, a puppy can be quite a handful.
Sure, they're cute as can be, but they can also be willful, mischievous,
and downright destructive.
One of the best ways to avoid the frustrations of new puppy ownership,
and one of the best gifts you can give yourself and your new pet is to
crate train him. Crate training takes some discipline, but it's well
worth the time and effort in the long run. It is probably the best way
to potty train your puppy, and it will come in handy in situations
like transporting your pet.
First, get your puppy an appropriate crate. There are plastic and metal dog
crates available in different sizes. Choose the best size for the puppy,
one that is large enough for him to stand and turn around in.
Don't get one that is so large that your puppy can just go to one end
of the crate and go potty. You want the dog to view this as his new
home or den. Dogs will avoid soiling their own dens. If you get a
large crate in anticipation of your puppy growing, just block off the back
part of the crate. Remember to put a soft towel or blanket in the crate.
Encourage your pup to go into the crate with a treat and/or toy. An
interesting toy, such a Kong filled with peanut butter will keep
your dog engaged and happy in the crate. Leave the door open
and praise her when she goes inside and stays there. Don't force the pup
into the crate. Remember, this new home is supposed to be a
pleasant place for them, not a punishment. You can even feed the
puppy in the crate to create a positive association for her.
When the animal is comfortable being in the crate, close the
door and leave it closed for progressively longer periods of time.
Begin leaving the puppy alone in the closed crate and gradually
lengthen the time you are away from the crate.
If your puppy whines, don't immediately comfort her and let her out.
That just teaches them that if they whine, they get what they
want. Ignore the whining. (I know it's hard!) Let your puppy out
only when she is quiet and calm.
A well-exercised puppy will probably make it easier to crate
train. A tired puppy means a quieter, calmer puppy that will
more than likely just curl up and nap in the crate.
When you do let him out, don't make a big deal out of it. You
don't want puppy to think that being outside of the crate is
the better, happier situation.
One of the biggest challenges with a puppy is potty training.
Crate training makes this task much easier to handle. Young pups
need to eliminate every 2 to 4 hours. Let your puppy out of the crate
and outside to go potty on a regular schedule, like first thing
in the morning, after meals, and before bedtime. This teaches the
pup a routine that will last throughout his life.
When letting the pup out of the crate to eliminate, put her on a
leash and go immediately to the potty area. Give her 5 to 10
minutes to do her business. If she doesn't go, put her back into
the crate. If she goes, praise her, give her treats, and play with
her. You can even let her play in the house freely for a time,
with your supervision of course.
Keep your puppy crated during the night. You will probably have
to let them out in the middle of the night for a potty break,
but that hardship won't last too long. Puppies grow fast and
soon he will be able to hold it for longer periods of time.
As for leaving your puppy in the crate when you leave the house,
remember that young dogs need to eliminate every few hours,
so arrange to come home, have a neighbor check in, or hire a
pet sitter to make sure your puppy is taken care of.
Remember, the effort you put into crate training contributes
to a positive experience in dog ownership for you, as well
as to the overall happiness of your pet.
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3) "How to Properly Introduce a New Pet to an Existing Pet"
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Bringing home a new animal into a household that already has a pet
can go without a hitch or it can end up being a huge headache. Either
way, it's something that will probably make you a bit nervous, so here
are a few tips that might make it go smoothly for everyone.
First of all, no matter what type of pet you already have and what type
you want to bring home, make sure they are all healthy and up-to-date
on all their shots/vaccinations. You don't want to introduce a disease
or fleas into your home and to your existing pet!
The next thing you'll want to make sure of is that your attitude and the
emotions you project are 100 percent positive. Animals are very
sensitive to what we are feeling, so you'll want to have an upbeat,
confident attitude when introducing a new pet(s). No anxiety
or fear allowed!
After you've checked off those first two items, the next task you'll
want to tackle is to let your established pet get familiar with
the newcomer. Gradual introductions are the best and you
must supervise the animals at all times.
Ideally, the new pet should have a room of its own that is isolated
from the other pet(s). Introductions should always be supervised
and pets should not be loose. Have your dogs on leashes, behind
gates, or in crates. Cats should have their own crates too.
The sense of smell is much more important to dogs and cats than
it is to us. They meet, identify, and greet each other through scent.
You can use that in your introductions.
For cats, put the new kitty in a crate and after a time, take
the kitty out and leave it in a room by itself and take the empty
crate to the existing cat to smell and check out. Or, you can switch
the cats' sleeping blankets/beds so they can get used to each other's
scent.
You can even try feeding the cats with a door between
them (not too close at first!). They can associate something
pleasurable with the other's scent. Try feeding special treats on top
of a blanket or towel that the other cat has used.
Another method people use is to have the pets switch rooms. The
existing pet can stay in the new pet's room, while the new pet
gets to roam around the rest of the house. Again, they can
smell the other's scent and become accustomed to it.
After some time, you can prop the door open a bit or use a baby gate
so they can take a peek at each other, and eventually, you can
try putting them together in an open space with your supervision. You can
try holding your cat while a friend holds the newcomer in the same
room. If that goes well, you may want to let them roam freely with each
other. If they fight, that may mean you're going too quickly, so back
off a bit and start over.
For dogs, you can let a new dog into your backyard to smell your
existing dog's scent and leave some of his own. Then, put your
existing pet into the backyard to take a whiff.
You can use a crate to bring in a new pooch and let established
pooch smell and check him out. You can do the same with a
new cat. If your existing dog is crated, you can put the crates
across from each other and gradually bring them closer until
they are side by side.
Always use a leash on your pooch in a face-to-face meeting
with a new dog. You can hold your dog while a friend holds the
new dog. Let them sniff noses and greet each other. Watch for
signs/sounds of aggression. If you want to take extra precautions,
use a muzzle.
Keep the meetings short at the beginning until they get used to
each other. It's also best to have short, frequent meetings rather
than long, infrequent meetings.
Have treats readily available and give lots of praise to reinforce
good, friendly behavior. Be observant and watch for signs of
aggression or fear. The pets might not fight, but they may be
exhibiting negative behaviors that will not make for a harmonious
household.
Another great way to introduce dogs together is to walk them
together. You must be able to control them at all times,
and keep them separated until they, and you, feel
comfortable letting them sniff the same spot.
One key is to keep them moving forward and letting them
get used to walking on either side of your comfortably. As an
added precaution, it's a good idea to have a friend help you
walk them together, or just have the friend walk along while
you control both dogs.
When putting a dog and another small animal like a cat together,
it's probably best not to leave them alone together. If you leave
the house, crate or confine one or the other to ensure safety.
If you're introducing a cat and dog, it's best if your dog is
trained to listen and obey commands such as "sit," "stay," and
"leave it." You can start with having them smell each other
through a closed door, then gradually move onto a face-to-face
meeting in a controlled manner.
In the meeting, the dog should be on a leash and sitting next
to you, while a friend can be across the room with kitty. The dog
should be praised and rewarded for behaving and the meetings
should only last a few minutes at a time. Gradually increase the
time and also let the cat explore and check out the dog. The goal
is to get them to at least tolerate each other without fear or
aggression.
And remember, it's very important to keep in mind that animals can sense
your emotions. Believe and act as though the introductions are
going to go well, that you see all your animals getting along.
Don't act fearful or nervous. Act with positive energy and confidence.
That, along with taking reasonable precautions, will make it a
happy introduction for all.
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4) "The Sad Truth About Pet Food"
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With the unbelievable number of recent pet food recalls, I thought
it may be time to bring up the issue of pet foods again. There is
a sad truth about the pet food industry that not everyone knows
about. A lot of people in the pet industry do know some of these
facts, and this is why they feed an all human food diet, otherwise
known as a raw food diet.
There are things that you should know about the pet foods, and I
will refer you to someone who can explain it much better than I
can. There is documented proof of what he says, and he covers
them.
He may come across a little strong, but this is an important subject.
If you are not prepared for what he says, then DON'T READ IT! You
WILL be shocked. Let me repeat. If you are not prepared for what he
says, then DON'T READ IT! You WILL be shocked.
Not all of what goes on in the pet food industry applies to all foods,
but the nutritional portion of what he talks about rings true. You
absolutely MUST be aware of what you are feeding your pets.
To find out more, listen to what Andrew Lewis has to say by going to
his page at: s1salesaff.dogsecrets.hop.clickbank.net/.
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5) "Tell Us What You Think!"
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We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is
just one issue, with much more important information
coming in future months.
Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for
upcoming issues to us at:
rdelgado@thewoofpack.com
Your feedback matters to us!
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Copyright 2007 by The Woof Pack.
All rights reserved.
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rick,
i thoroughly enjoy your well written, sincere and informative newsletters. Keep up the good work.
Lauralie and John
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