December 2007 - Vol. 2 Issue 7
by: Richard Delgado
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In this issue:
1) "How to Relieve Your Cat's Boredom"
2) "How to Boost Confidence in Your Dog"
3) "Tell Us What You Think!"
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1) "How to Relieve Your Cat's Boredom"
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How many times have you sat around with nothing to do and
exclaimed, "I'm bored!" Now think of your cat at home for
hours at a time with nothing to do while you're at work.
Indoor cats with little or no stimulation will probably just
focus on eating and sleeping or even causing mischief.
Granted, cats do spend a lot of time sleeping, but if left on
their own outside, cats will also spend time stalking and
hunting prey, playing, and socializing with other cats.
Here are some suggestions to keep your pet engaged and
entertained for a healthier, happier life.
* SOCIALIZE
If you get a kitten, be sure to socialize him/her as soon as
you can. Have people visit you and your kitten to get used to
being around different people. Even if you adopt an adult cat,
you should make sure to socialize him/her. While you're out of
the house, you can get a friend or neighbor to visit and play
with your cat. You can also hire a pet sitter to visit and play
with your cat.
* TOYS
There are plenty of cat toys out there for you to check out.
There are fuzzy ones, feathery ones, ones with bells, ones with
catnip inside them, ones attached to strings and poles, and
battery-powered ones that move on their own. You can find them
at grocery stores and pet stores. When you can, engage your cat
with a toy. Get them to stalk and pounce, chase and capture. There
are special toys you can fill with catnip or food to really get
your cat interested.
Sometimes, you won't even need to buy a special cat toy. A balled
up piece of aluminum foil, a ping pong ball, or a length of yarn
can be just as entertaining to your cat. Also, consider leaving a
paper bag or cardboard box on the floor. Cats love to explore new
things and love to go inside small spaces.
* SOMETHING TALL
Cats love to go up high. We've all probably heard of stories about
cats getting stuck in trees. It's in their nature to climb and perch
on something far off the ground. You can buy pre-made cat "condos,"
which are built in different sizes and covered in carpet. If you're
ambitious, you can build one yourself. One of my clients has a great
climbing pole made out of the thick cardboard center from a roll of
carpet. He covered it with extra carpet from that roll and voila! Super
cat climber contraption! His cats love to climb on it and also scratch
the heck out of it.
In addition to the pole, my client built several perches around the
house so the cats could jump from one to the next, peer out of
windows, and sit and sleep on them. One of his cats' favorite perches
is in front of a window at the second-story level.
* SOMETHING TO SCRATCH - OTHER THAN YOUR COUCH
One of the ways cats mark their territory is by scratching. They also
scratch to shed the outer layer of their nails and to sharpen them. One
of the things to remember when buying or building a scratching post is
that cats like to scratch tall things. The same client who built all the
perches also built a very tall scratching post. He bought a piece of
two-by-four at a home improvement store, wrapped a long length of rope
around it all the way up to about six feet. The cats love it, especially
because when they stand up on their hind legs and stretch their front
legs up onto the pole, they cat stretch as far as they want and will still
have plenty of pole to scratch.
* CAT TV
You can leave a television on for the sights and sounds it provides your
cat. There are even cat entertainment DVDs out there for purchase. They
feature other creatures such as bugs, fish, mice, and birds for the cat
to watch.
* FISH
If you're up for the challenge and responsibility of owning a few more
pets, consider an aquarium with fish. I know a pet owner who had a fish
tank with several fish and her cat loved to watch them swim around. Of
course, you have to make sure the tank is secure so that the cat can't get
a paw into the water and scoop up a fish! (Again, this suggestion is only
for those who can take on the effort and expense of maintaining the fish
and the tank. It's not a toy for the cat, but another set of pets and the
resulting hard work.)
* A CAT BUDDY
A lone cat might like to have a companion, so consider bringing another
cat into the picture. Of course, there are no guarantees that the cats will
become friends and playmates, but it's something to consider.
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2) "How to Boost Confidence in Your Dog"
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As a pet sitter, I've encountered many different breeds
of dogs as well as various temperaments and personalities.
One troublesome trait I've dealt with several times is
fearfulness or shyness. Excessive fear or anxiety in your
pet can become a pretty big problem if left untreated. Dogs
will exhibit fear in various ways, such as trembling,
salivating, pacing, running and hiding, tucking their tails
between their legs, urinating, or even exhibiting aggression
like growling, barking, and biting. Here are a few
suggestions on how to deal with an overly fearful or
anxious dog.
THE SOURCE OF FEAR
Dogs can exhibit fear of many things, such as people,
other dogs, inanimate objects like vacuum cleaners or
skateboards, separation from the owner, and loud
sounds like firecrackers or thunderstorms. The list
can go on and on. Perhaps the dog was not socialized
properly when he/she was a puppy, or was traumatized
by abuse, or maybe just predisposed to being fearful.
In any case, you have to be the stable source of
energy that will consistently and gently lead the dog
away from exhibiting the behaviors associated with the
source of his/her fear.
VISIT THE VET
Of course, as with any negative situation with your
dog, rule out any medical reasons. Make sure your dog
is healthy and that there are no underlying illnesses
or medical conditions that might be causing the
problem.
BE THE CONFIDENT LEADER
After ruling out any health issues, the most important
thing to remember is that you have the biggest
influence on your dog. For your dog to overcome fear
and become more confident, you have to be calm,
assertive, and positive. Animals can sense how you are
feeling, so it's critical that you project the
confidence that you want your dog to adopt.
You must also gain your dog's trust and confidence as
the leader. If your dog looks to you as the pack
leader, he/she will more readily listen to and follow
your instructions. The assertiveness you practice with
your dog can only help him/her. You have to remember
that dogs are dogs; they are not four-legged humans.
If you resort to reassuring and coddling a dog as you
would a child, it could have the opposite effect of
reinforcing the negative behaviors you're trying to
stop.
One thing that is very helpful when you attempt to
help your dog overcome fear is making sure your dog
knows some basic commands like "sit," "lie down," and
"stay." If your dog listens to you as a leader and
knows a few word commands, it will make it easier for
you to control your dog in stressful situations.
DE-SENSITIZE AND COUNTER CONDITION
A common way to help your dog overcome fear of
specific things, such as a person, an item, or
thunderstorms, is to de-sensitize them to the object of
their anxiety. For example, if your dog is fearful of
thunderstorms, you can get a recording a thunderstorm
and play it over and over again, gradually increasing
the volume.
To do this properly, make sure your dog is
in a calm and happy state. Then, start the recording
at a very low level. If the dog doesn't show signs of
fear, reward with a treat and increase the volume. If
the dog starts showing fear, stop and lower the volume
until he/she is calm again. Then, start over. You can
have these types of sessions with a professional or
try them on your own. It's very important to know that
this takes plenty of time and patience, with sessions
taking place over the course of days, weeks or even
months.
You can also de-sensitize dogs to items. We'll use a
skateboard for this example. If your dog acts fearful
around a skateboard, you can bring one within eyesight
of the dog. Have your dog sit and stay. If your dog
stays calm, reward and praise him. If he acts
fearful, don't comfort the dog. That only reinforces
the negative reaction. Instead, move the item away
until he calms down and start again. Slowly move
the item closer to the dog, rewarding the dog if
he remains relaxed. Eventually, you can try having
someone ride by at a distance and again look for
either a calm or fearful reaction. Slow and steady is
the key and never push your dog too fast.
To counter condition, you teach the dog that the thing
that scares him can now be a source of good
things. For example, if your dog is scared of men, you
can have a male friend help out in the sessions,
creating situations where the dog will associate
treats and positive feelings by being around a man
instead of experiencing the usual anxiety.
Again, like with any training, this takes time and
patience. You can have your friend visit and just
ignore the dog. Don't force the interaction. The man
can sit on the floor, facing away from the dog, never
making eye contact. You can have him hold an especially
tempting treat so the dog has an incentive to approach.
Over time, the dog will sniff and approach, and maybe even
take a treat that has been dropped on the floor by the
man. The dog may eventually take the treat directly
from the man. As the owner, you should be there,
projecting happy and positive energy, staying calm,
but never reassuring the dog if he/she shows fear or
tries to cling to you.
You can use de-sensitizing and counter conditioning
together for all types of fears, from objects to
people to noises. If your dog is afraid of traffic
noises, slowly introduce him to the noises. Take
him for walks in town to increasingly busy areas.
If your dog is afraid of other dogs, introduce your
dog in a controlled and safe environment to a smaller,
well-behaved and confident dog. Gradually introduce
him to other dogs.
If your dog has separation anxiety, you can implement
the same techniques, gradually getting him used to the
idea of you being gone. Have your dog sit and stay while
you move away. Reward the dog if he stays and doesn't whine
or cry. Slowly increase the distance and the duration of
your absence. Keep rewarding calm behavior and don't
reward anxious behavior.
The key to using these techniques effectively is to
move at a slow and consistent pace, gradually training
your dog to be more confident and trusting. These
techniques can work if you are patient and always
remain calm.
CALL IN A PRO
You might want to consider calling in a professional
to help you since these techniques take a lot of
patience and correct handling. If you push too hard or
too fast, it can cause your dog to become more fearful
and even aggressive. A very fearful or anxious dog
might benefit from a knowledgeable trainer who has
experienced and treated troubled dogs.
You and your dog can also benefit from professional obedience
and/or agility training. Learning new commands and
skills can serve to boost your dog's confidence, give
him something new and exciting to focus on, relieve boredom,
and distract him from the things that might scare him.
DON'T SCOLD OR PUNISH
Never scold or punish your dog for showing fear. This
will only be counterproductive. At the same time,
remember not to reassure or coddle your dog when they
are in a frightened state. This will only reinforce
the negative behavior. Instead, try to take their
mind off of whatever is causing them fear, or start running
through training drills that you have been working on. Making
them work at a time of distress is a great way to alleviate
the fear, and make them use their brain in a productive way.
BE PATIENT AND CONSISTENT
As with any type of dog training, this will take a lot
of patience, consistency, and persistence. You can't
rush your dog into becoming a confident and happy
animal. If you push too hard or too fast, you can
cause setbacks and additional problems. Training your
dog can take weeks or months, so keep in mind that
this is a long-term proposition.
MEDICATION
For some dogs, it might be appropriate to look into
some type of anti-anxiety medication. This may help in the
beginning, but I believe in solving the problem, not masking
it with medication. Only a vet can check your dog and prescribe
the right medical solution. Do not give dogs human medication as
it can be harmful or even deadly.
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3) "Tell Us What You Think!"
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We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is
just one issue, with much more important information
coming in future months.
Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for
upcoming issues to us at:
rdelgado@thewoofpack.com
Your feedback matters to us!
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Copyright 2007 by The Woof Pack.
All rights reserved.
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