by: Richard Delgado



================================================



Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

this publication. You have received this newsletter

because you are either a client of The Woof Pack, or

you have signed up for the newsletter by filling out

our form.



We are sending you this complimentary issue, but if you

would no longer like to receive newsletters from The

Woof Pack, the unsubscribe instructions are at the

bottom of this publication.



We know you will love the pet care information included,

so if you enjoy it, do nothing and a new issue will come

once every month.



================================================



In this issue:



1) "Don't Let This Tragedy Happen to Your Beloved Pet!"



2) "Cleaning Your Pet's Ears, and Maintaining Them"



3) "8 Easy Steps to Ruining Your Dog"



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"





================================================



1) "Don't Let This Tragedy Happen to Your Beloved Pet!"



================================================



I had a different article that was supposed to be on this

newsletter, but I needed to write about what happened a few

days ago. This is important, and I don't want any of you to

experience a loss like this. I have to get this off of my

chest.



I was on my way to an assignment a few days ago, and for

some reason, I went a different way. Up ahead there was a

slowdown in the traffic. From what I saw, a man on a bicycle

was crossing the street near the tracks. Then, as I got

closer, I saw a small dog crossing the street behind him,

off leash. I was just saying to myself that this bonehead was

taking a big chance letting his dog follow him off leash, AND

crossing a busy street. "What an idiot," I thought.



The van in front of me started moving forward, then all of a

sudden, the dog came running back across in front of the van.

The van did not stop, and it ran over the dog completely. The

dog was a little Chihuahua, and it yelped out as it went under

the tire. The dog did not move much after that.



This happened right in front of me, and I was horrified! I

couldn't believe what I had just seen, yet this little dog lay

in front of my truck, not moving much at all. I quickly pulled

over, and as I got out of my truck, I yelled at the man on the

bicycle if this was his dog. He barely turned around and said no,

it was not his dog. This guy didn't even act like what had

happened was any big deal.



I walked up to the dog, and I could see a great big hump on its

back. I think the poor dog's back was broken. I reached out

carefully to see if the dog would snap back and try to bite me.

My pet first aid training and knowledge told me that "any animal

in pain, or that will be moved into pain, can and will bite."

I assessed that the dog could not feel anything, or that it was

in shock, or both. You do not want to muzzle a dog in shock.



I figured the dog was not a threat to bite, and he was breathing

and had a heartbeat. I stabilized him the best I could, and

brought him into my truck. I knew I had very little time, and I

was just a minute or two from the nearest vet. Unfortunately,

while I was caring for the dog and readying him for transport, a

commuter train began crossing on the tracks and I had to wait

another few precious minutes. Finally, I was able to get the dog

to the vet, still in just a few minutes after the accident.



I could tell during that short trip to the vet that the dog was

starting to breath more shallow, and that he was really

struggling. When I took the dog out of my truck, he was in even

worse shape. I could tell what the outcome would be already.

I rushed him inside, and the vet staff rushed him to the back.

After about a minute, the vet tech came back out and I filled

out a report. She told me that the dog was not going to make it,

even though I already knew that would be the case.



Another concerned motorist had followed me to the vet office,

and came inside. We were all talking to the vet tech and we

were still amazed at what had happened in just a few minutes

time. A dog needlessly lost his life, and all it took was a

brief moment in time.



So, why am I telling you this tragic story? Well, certainly

I don't want to bum you out. I am telling you this story

because this is an example of what could happen if we as pet

owners relax too much and don't take the time to make sure

our pets are safe and secure. The dog didn't have a collar on,

but I could tell he was well taken care. This was not a stray,

but someone's beloved pet that got out. And, they would soon

be looking for their dog, and may not ever find out what

happened to him.



I don't know where you are located geographically, but here in

Fremont, CA we are having Spring-like weather. Of course, we

just officially entered Spring. As the days get nicer, female

dogs and cats can go into heat, and the males may start

to wander. This time of year there is an increase of pets getting

out of the back yards, and out of the house. Please, don't let

your pets get out.



You should always make sure your fencing and gates are secure,

and that there are no cracks or spaces where your pets could get

out. This is especially true as the days get nicer. And always

be very careful when opening doors. Animals are very quick,

especially if they have a mate on their mind. Make sure windows

are secure too.



Please, if you know your dog likes to roam, or will not come

to you on command, then get training for your dog. Teach your

dog its boundaries. You can teach them not to exit the door

unless you say so, or you can teach them never to leave the

curb. It can be done, and should be done. You can also train

your cats as well. Yes, cats are trainable, and if you only

teach them one thing, then you should teach them their boundaries.



No one cares for your pets like you do. Certainly, the guy on

the bicycle couldn't have cared less about what happened to that

little Chihuahua. He shocked me by his callous attitude. And the

guy who ran the dog over didn't care either. He didn't stop to

check on the dog. Some of the other drivers were concerned about

the dog, but none of them got out of their vehicle to help the

dog. Even though I could not help the dog, I feel that I was

meant to go that way so I could at least take the dog to the vet

so he could be put out of his misery.



So aside from myself, and the motorist who followed me to the vet

office, no one cared enough about that little dog. Remember,

NO ONE cares for your pets like YOU do. They depend on you to

make sure they are kept safe and secure. Please, do this

for your pets. They love you, and you love them, and you would

not want to come home and find them missing, and you certainly

would not want any harm to come to them.





=================================================



2) "Cleaning Your Pet's Ears, and Maintaining Them"



=================================================





The next time you call out your pet dog or cat's name

and watch his/her ears move in response and how they

turn toward and move toward you, remind yourself just

how important his/her sense of hearing is for overall

well-being.



Being aware of this will help keep you on track with

checking and maintaining the health of your pet's ears.



*Check ears regularly

It's easy to check your pet's ears on a regular basis. A

weekly check is probably the best. It's just a matter of

remembering to do it. First of all, observe your pet's

behavior. If there is something wrong, a pet will resort

to shaking his/her head and scratching at the ear. If you

see your pet doing a bit too much shaking and scratching

around the ears, there may be something wrong, so keep

an eye out for these telltale signs.



Even if you don't notice your pet doing anything unusual,

it's best to keep on top of any potential problems by

taking a good look at those ears. Checking your pet's

ears is something that is best started when they are

young so they become accustomed to it. But, even if

you're getting a late start, it's something you should

start doing regularly.



First, check the outside. Move your fingers over the ears,

watching for an abnormal reaction from your pet, like

flinching as if he/she is reacting in pain or discomfort.

There shouldn't be any swelling, redness, discharge

or crustiness around the outer ear.



Next, take a look inside the ear. Using a penlight

or flashlight is a good idea since the inside of the ear

can look like a complex maze. Hold the tip of the ear

and move it back to get a good view inside. Again, there

shouldn't be any sort of redness, discharge, crustiness,

or foul odor.



*Clean ears weekly

If you allow your cat or dog spends time outdoors,

his/her ears may get a bit dirty. Or, there may just

be a bit of wax build-up. A weekly check and cleaning

is a good idea, especially for those dog or cat breeds

that have folded-over or floppy ears (as opposed to

upright) and those that tend to have excessive hair/fur

in and around the ears.



To clean the ears, just use a cotton ball or a cleansing

pad made especially for cleaning ears. If a dry pad

isn't good enough, wet it with a bit of cleansing solution

made specifically for cleaning a dog or cat's ears.



Pull back the ear flap a bit and gently rub the

cleansing pad to remove dirt from the flap and inside

just the middle portion of the ear. Do not insert

anything (like a Q-tip) into the inner part of the

ear canal.



There are ear cleaning and wax removal solutions

you can use to clean the inner portion of your pet's

ears. A few drops or a squirt of the special solution

into the ear and a gentle massage at the base of the

ears for about 25 seconds are usually all that are needed.

Place a cotton ball inside the ear and massage a

bit more to soak up solution and pick up debris.

Repeat if there is a lot of wax or dirt.



Note that you should not leave the ear moist with

solution. Excess moisture in the ears is an inviting

environment in which bacteria can thrive.



Your pet may not like this, so be prepared to

hold onto your pet when you do this. However, you

don't want this to be an unpleasant experience for

you pet, so don't use too much force when holding them.

You can also give them treats as part of the cleaning

process so they associate this with something good.



If you don't have experience cleaning a dog or cat's

ears, you might want to get advice and instructions

from your vet so you don't hurt your pet's ears. And

excessive cleaning is not a good idea either. You

don't want to be the cause any problems!



*Visit the vet when something appears wrong

Get to know your pet's ears so you know when something

is wrong. When something looks out of the ordinary,

get your pet to the vet for a thorough check.



*Common ear ailments

Some of the most common ear problems for pets include ear

mites, foreign objects in the ear, and infections.



EAR MITES

Mites are tiny insects and this contagious condition

definitely needs the attention of a vet. The ears need

to be cleaned out and you will have to apply medication

to your pet's ears for a prescribed period of time to kill

the insects.



FOREIGN OBJECTS

It's not uncommon for cats and dogs to play outside

and then come home with foreign objects, most commonly

plant life like foxtails, inside their ears. This

condition is usually easy to spot because your pet will

be shaking his/her head and scratching around the ears.



Do an inspection and see if you spot the problem.

Sometimes it will be something you can see right away

and will be able to remove yourself. If it's embedded

too deeply in the ear or you can't even see the source

of your pet's discomfort, a trip to the vet will be

necessary to have the object removed.



INFECTION

As a warm, moist environment, the ear can be the

perfect place for a bacterial or yeast infection. Infections

can cause pain, swelling, and discharge from the ears.

Like the mites, this is something for the vet to take

care of. Again, medication applied to the inside of

the ear is usually used to kill off the infection.



Remember, if you catch a small problem early, you can

avoid a very big problem later on. Awareness and

consistent effort on your part will keep your pet's

ears clean and working at their best.



REFERENCES: www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=106

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=165

http://www.thepuppynetwork.com/grooming/dog_ear_care.html

http://ezinearticles.com/?Cat-Ear-Care-Do-You-Know-What-To-Do?&id=421436



=================================================



3) "8 Easy Steps to Ruining Your Dog"



=================================================





Follow these rules, and you are certain to ruin your dog.

When you read these,make sure you understand that you need

to think about what the opposite of these would be, and

how to properly interact with your dog, and how to properly

train your dog, socialize him, and lead your dog.





1. Isolate him. Make sure he thinks the world is a strange

place.



2. Soothe him whenever he is frightened. Tell him it's okay

and stroke him gently.



3. Allow him to growl. Tell yourself "It's OK. He doesn't

really mean it."



4. When he struggles to get out of your grasp, let him go.

This teaches him that you have no control.



5. Hold the leash tight every time something frightening

happens. Even better, say "Uh-oh" as you pull the lead tight.



6. Never let him play with other dogs.



7. Don't neuter him.



8. Leave him with children unsupervised. Allow children to

harass him because he is such a good dog.



Remember, read the title of this article again, and re-read

these. Make sure you are not doing these, and start doing the

opposite.





"Good Owners, Great Dogs," Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson

Warner Books, 1999





=================================================



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"



=================================================



We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is

just one issue, with much more important information

coming in future months.



Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for

upcoming issues to us at:



rdelgado@thewoofpack.com



Your feedback matters to us!





======================================================



Copyright 2008 by The Woof Pack.

All rights reserved.



======================================================





You are subscribed to The Woof Pack Times Newsletter as

[email]



If you have received this mailing in error, or if you no

longer wish to receive email from the The Woof Pack Pet Sitting

and Care, please visit the link below to unsubscribe.



You will be automatically excluded from any future newsletter

mailings. You may still receive important updates and offers from

us.

unsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



If you want to be completely excluded from all emails, except for

when we are performing pet services for your and your pets (if you

are a client), you may unsubscribe from all lists by sending us a blank

email at the following link.

allunsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



Or, if you would prefer to unsubscribe via postal mail,

please contact us at:



The Woof Pack

Attn: Newsletter Subscription Dept.

P.O. Box 2714

Fremont, CA 94536-2714





Please remember to include the email address we have

contacted you at, so that we can complete your request

without delay.

by: Richard Delgado



================================================



Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

this publication. You have received this newsletter

because you are either a client of The Woof Pack, or

you have signed up for the newsletter by filling out

our form.



We are sending you this complimentary issue, but if you

would no longer like to receive newsletters from The

Woof Pack, the unsubscribe instructions are at the

bottom of this publication.



We know you will love the pet care information included,

so if you enjoy it, do nothing and a new issue will come

once every month.



================================================



In this issue:



1) "Should I Worry About Those Lumps on My Pet?"



2) "Do I Have an Over-Protective Dog?"



3) "Pros and Cons of Declawing your Cat"



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"





================================================



1) "Should I Worry About Those Lumps on My Pet?"



================================================



As a pet owner, stroking your dog or cat is probably

something you do often and quite happily. Most likely,

you know your pet pretty well and would notice anything

unusual, like a lump that wasn't there before.



If that happens, you'll probably react with concern and

fear. That's probably a good reaction to have because

that will spur you on to take your pet to the vet's for

a check-up.



Sometimes, lumps or bumps will turn out to be minor

and require just a little treatment, or none at all.

But the lump could also be a cancerous tumor that will

require surgery to remove and possibly additional care like

chemotherapy or radiation treatment.



I FOUND A LUMP! NOW WHAT?

The first step is to take your pet to the veterinarian. The

doctor can examine your pet and take a look at the lump,

and decide the next course of action based on knowledge

and clinical experience.



WHAT IS THAT LUMP?

A lump can be a fat deposit (lipoma), an injury (like a

bite or scratch) that has become infected, a plugged

gland or hair follicle, a cyst, wart, or a benign or

cancerous tumor. The vet will first visually examine

the lump to help identify what it is. Some of the things

they will note is the size, shape, texture, whether it seems

to cause your pet discomfort or pain, and if fluid or

blood is coming out of it.



WHAT WILL THE VET DO NEXT?

In many instances, the vet will take a sample of tissue

using a needle and syringe. Or, the vet might remove a

piece of the lump or the whole thing. The sample will

then be evaluated to determine what the lump is and

what should be done about it.



Following diagnosis of the sample, the vet

will recommend a course of action such

as more tests, or complete removal of the lump.

What you and your vet decide to do will take into

account what the lump is, if it's harmful or

harmless, and your pet's general health and age.



The best thing you can do for your pet and for

your peace of mind is to take the time to examine

your pet regularly, moving your hands gently over

his/her head all the way down to his/her toes and

back to the tail. Take a look into his/her mouth,

as lumps can also appear on the lips or gums.



Our pets can't talk to us, so it's up to us to be

observant and take quick action when something is amiss.



References: www.thepetcenter.com/exa/lumps.html

http://www.pets.ca/articles/article-lumps.htm

http://www.pets.ca/articles/article-lumps.htm





=================================================



2) "Do I Have an Over-Protective Dog?"



=================================================



Throughout history, dogs have been used for the protection of

people and property. It's comforting to know that our furry

friends may do what they can to ensure our safety if we're

ever in danger. But in most people's every day lives, they

don't need their dogs to bare their teeth, growl, lunge, and bite.



Unfortunately, there are many pet owners who have dogs that

exhibit aggression because they are being overprotective. If this

behavior is left unchecked, it can cause inconvenience or

even have tragic consequences. The dog that can attack a

burglar who enters your home can, without training and

discipline, just as easily attack a visiting friend.



In general, the overprotective dog is one that is in control

of the household. The dog is the leader, not the human.

This is a big problem because when the dog assumes

the leadership role, he/she takes all responsibilities.

That means they are in charge and won't listen

to those pack members lower on the totem pole (you).

Since they are in charge, they must protect their

territory, which includes space, objects, and people.

If anyone outside of the pack tries to encroach on the

overprotective dog's territory, they will react with

aggression.



Common signs of aggression include growling, snarling,

curling the lip, lunging, snapping, and barking. When these

signs occur when someone outside of what your dog would

consider the "pack" enters your space, then your dog

is probably being overprotective.



Before you decide your dog is just being overprotective,

make sure there is nothing medically wrong. Sometimes

pain or illness will cause a dog to act aggressively.



When you have identified your dog's aggression as over-

protectiveness, realize that you have to take charge as the leader and

provide the proper discipline and training for your dog.

Remember to see things as a dog would. Dogs in the wild

live in packs and there is room for only one leader. You have to

be that leader and be the one to decide who is the threat

to your pack and who is not (friends, family, the mail carrier, etc.)



Of course, it's best to identify and address this issue when

your dog is young, but older dogs can ALWAYS be trained

to behave appropriately.



Contact a qualified professional dog trainer and/or behaviorist

to understand your dog better and to find ways to train your dog

to behave.



One of the most important things to recognize is that the dog

is not being "bad" and should not be punished. The dog is

only doing what comes naturally -- protecting his pack as the

leader. It's up to you to take on that role for you and your dog.



References: www.unclematty.com/training/dangerdogs.htm



=================================================



3) "Pros and Cons of Declawing your Cat"



=================================================



At one time or another, every cat owner has probably looked

at their shredded couch corners or drapes and wished that their

beloved pet didn't have such sharp claws. In fact, some owners

don't just wish, but take the step of surgically declawing their cats.

I'd like to address this practice (which I strongly oppose),

its pros and cons, and give you my take on it.



WHAT IS DECLAWING?

To declaw a cat, you have to go to your veterinarian. It's a

surgical procedure that requires general anesthesia and some

recovery time. Declawing is not simple, nor easy - it's about

amputating the last joints in a cat's toes.



This is serious surgery with permanent consequences. Imagine

if you had the last joint of all your fingers cut off.

Think of how your world and how you behave in it would

change forever. I don't think it's a stretch to make this

comparison.



After declawing, also called Onychectomy, the cat must

stay in the hospital for a time. As with many procedures,

the ideal time to declaw is when the cat is 3 to 5

months of age, and it's not recommended at all for

older cats.



With bandaged paws, the cat is sent home for a recovery

that can be painful and psychologically traumatic.

Cats need their paws to do everyday tasks, such as walking

and using the litter box. As I mentioned, think of if

you lost all your finger tips. Things we rarely give

much thought to, like picking up a pencil or turning the

pages of a book, become a big deal.



While the cat is recovering, exercise must be restricted,

especially jumping. The cat should not be active for about

a week. If the cat breaks open a scab and the bleeding

doesn't stop in about 20 minutes, he/she will need a vet.



Regular litter must be replaced by shredded paper

for a week or so. The smaller bits of clay litter or sand

can get stuck in the cat's paws where the wounds are and

cause infection.



In addition, swollen paws, reluctance to walk after

about 24 hours, and other signs of unusual physical

or behavioral changes will require a vet visit.



PROS

Of course, the big pro in declawing a cat is for the

owner -- no more scratching people or furniture.



CONS

First there is the surgery. It will cost you money and

cause pain for your cat. And as with any surgery involving

general anesthesia, there are risks to consider.



Recovery will be uncomfortable and maybe even traumatic

for the cat. Some cats might even have difficulty adjusting

to declawing and may exhibit a personality change or

behavioral problems.



Cats need their claws for self-defense. If your declawed

indoor cat happens to get out by accident, he/she

will be pretty defenseless. And, if you have a dog in the

family as well, the cat will need their claws to be able to

fend off an overeager or aggressive canine.



MY OPINION

Personally, I don't believe in declawing cats. As an

owner of 2 cats, I know it can sometimes be annoying to

have my pets scratch me or my sofa, but I chose to

take in cats and it's something I just learn to deal with.

It's in a cat's nature to scratch, mainly to mark his/her

territory. And, I do have a dog who sometimes may play a

little too rough with the kitties, and they need a way to

tell him that enough is enough.



Better than declawing your cat, you just need to keep your

cats nails trimmed, provide a tall scratching post, or you may

consider using plastic claw coverings.



* Trimming nails

Remember to use appropriate clippers and trim

only the very end of the nail. You don't want to

cut too much and hit that pink portion of the nail

or you will cause pain and bleeding.



* Scratching post

Get a scratching post that is tall enough so that your

cat can stand on his/her hind legs and stretches his/her

front legs up high. Also make sure that it is solid

and stable. I noticed that my cats won't use those

smaller scratching posts that easily tip over. Also, they seem

to like the sisal rope posts, and do not even look at the carpet

covered posts. Each cat is different, so find out what yours likes.

Entice your cat to use it by rubbing some catnip

onto it and giving him/her treats as a reward when they scratch it.



*Plastic claw covers

These little covers are just glued on and you replace

them as they wear out or fall off. They are usually

used only on the front claws and can last a few months.

If you Google "cat claw covers," you'll get some

hits such as Soft Paws or Soft Claws nail covers.



My cats stay indoors, but on the off-chance that

they get out of the house, I like knowing that

they can at least defend themselves.



References: www.talktothevet.com/ARTICLES/CATS/catdeclawing.HTM

http://www.catscratching.com/



=================================================



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"



=================================================



We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is

just one issue, with much more important information

coming in future months.



Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for

upcoming issues to us at:



rdelgado@thewoofpack.com



Your feedback matters to us!





======================================================



Copyright 2008 by The Woof Pack.

All rights reserved.



======================================================





You are subscribed to The Woof Pack Times Newsletter as

[email]



If you have received this mailing in error, or if you no

longer wish to receive email from the The Woof Pack Pet Sitting

and Care, please visit the link below to unsubscribe.



You will be automatically excluded from any future newsletter

mailings. You may still receive important updates and offers from

us.

unsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



If you want to be completely excluded from all emails, except for

when we are performing pet services for your and your pets (if you

are a client), you may unsubscribe from all lists by sending us a blank

email at the following link.

allunsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



Or, if you would prefer to unsubscribe via postal mail,

please contact us at:



The Woof Pack

Attn: Newsletter Subscription Dept.

P.O. Box 2714

Fremont, CA 94536-2714





Please remember to include the email address we have

contacted you at, so that we can complete your request

without delay.

by: Richard Delgado



================================================



Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

this publication. You have received this newsletter

because you are either a client of The Woof Pack, or

you have signed up for the newsletter by filling out

our form.



We are sending you this complimentary issue, but if you

would no longer like to receive newsletters from The

Woof Pack, the unsubscribe instructions are at the

bottom of this publication.



We know you will love the pet care information included,

so if you enjoy it, do nothing and a new issue will come

once every month.



================================================



In this issue:



1) "Your Pet Can Tell You When They Are in Pain" 



2) "When It's Wet and Rainy, Your Dog Still Needs Exercise"



3) "Should You Express Your Pet's Anal Glands or Not?"



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"





================================================



1) ì"Your Pet Can Tell You When They Are in Pain""



================================================



We never want to see our pets uncomfortable or in

pain. And in many instances, when they are in pain,

they will mask it and you won't know they need help.

The common belief is that it's instinct - an animal in

pain is weak, is vulnerable to attack, and won't

survive long in the wild. To better the odds of

survival, the animal hides its pain.



So, knowing that animals tend to hide pain is a good

first step toward ensuring that you get your pet the

help he/she needs quickly when needed. The next is

knowing your pet well. You observe and interact with

your pets every day, so you will be the first to

notice when something is amiss.



Here are some signs to watch for:



* Unusual behavior

I know my cat's behaviors pretty well. I know how they

act on a day-to-day basis, what they tend to do during

the day and night. If my usually active cat who likes

to sprint across the room once in a while for no

reason stops that behavior, seems lethargic or quiet,

or sleeps even more than usual, that would raise red

flags for me. If my very affectionate cat who loves to

snuggle starts to prefer being alone or even avoids

contact, that would definitely mean something is

wrong.



* Unusual vocalizations

Hurt animals will sometimes tell you through

vocalizations such as squealing, hissing, screaming,

etc.



* Ceases grooming

If you notice that your usually soft and fluffy cat

looks ruffled and greasy, that might be a sign that

he/she has stopped grooming his/herself. Animals that

don't feel well will stop grooming.



* Weight gain or loss

Pay attention to your pet's weight. Pain can cause

your pet to eat less and lose weight. Or, pain may

slow your pet down and it will get less exercise,

leading to weight gain. Too much gain or loss signals

a problem.



* Difficulty eating/bad breath

If your pet has trouble chewing food and/or has bad

breath, you should get his/her teeth checked. Animals

have the same problems as we do when it comes to

teeth. They have plaque and tartar, and can develop

cavities and gum disease. Most pet owners probably

don't brush their pet's teeth regularly, so the

likelihood of dental problems is increased.



* Having bathroom accidents

Although at times a stray poop may be a behavioral

issue (like the time my friend's cat pooped on her

comforter because she hated her new cat litter),

sometimes it's a physical problem. Another friend had

an older cat and as the cat began to have problems

moving around, she started to go here and there on the

bedroom floor. She just couldn't make it to the litter

box all the time. A common cause of accidents is

urinary tract infection.



* Limping, scratching, biting

If you notice your pet limping, that's a sure sign of

pain. If there is excessive scratching or biting of a

particular area, that area is probably bothering them.



The best thing you can do for your pets is to get to

know them and their habits and behaviors. That way, if

you encounter anything out of the ordinary, you'll be

able to react quickly and save your pet from

experiencing unnecessary and prolonged pain. If you

see any of the signs listed above, you should take

your pet to your vet for a check-up. Tell your vet

what you've observed so they can receive the best

care possible.



References: www.healthypet.com/

http://www.bgsu.edu/offices/orc/iacuc/Recognizing%20Pain.doc.





=================================================



2) "When It's Wet and Rainy, Your Dog Still Needs Exercise"



=================================================



Sometimes there's nothing more relaxing than to

snuggle up on the couch with a good book on a damp and

dreary day. And I'm sure your dog would love

nothing more than to curl up next to you to keep you

company. That would be a fine thing to do on a rainy

day, but remember that at some point, you'll have to

rouse yourselves and get out there for your daily

walk.



If you're like me, you don't particularly like the

idea of stomping around out in the rain, but it's one

of those things I just accept as a dog owner. Big or

small, young or old, all dogs need daily exercise. A

good amount of exercise means 30 to 40 minutes or

walking at least one mile. If you can accommodate

several 20-minute walks every day, that would be

ideal.



If you're willing to brave the weather, consider a

raincoat made especially for dogs. But, if going out

in the rain is just not something you're willing to

do, how about some indoor alternatives?



* One of the easiest ways to deal with the rain is to

just walk your dog around and around inside your

house. Clip on that leash and make a circuit

throughout your house.



* If you happen to own a treadmill, you might want to

teach your dog how to walk on it. I just saw an

episode of "Dog Whisperer" on the National Geographic

Channel where Cesar Millan got a dog to start walking

on the treadmill. He just put the leash on the dog,

led him to the treadmill, had him first just step onto

it, then eventually turned on the machine (at a very

low speed to start). Cesar was straddling the moving

part of the treadmill while the dog started walking

just beneath him. After a bit of zigzagging, the dog

got the hang of it, and just started trotting along.



There are even treadmills made especially for dogs.

Hop online and you're sure to find one of these

products for sale. There are also video clips of dogs

walking on treadmills so you can see how it all works.



* You can also play games with your dog, such as

fetch. You do have to be careful with games because

they can tend to make dogs a bit too excited. So, you

might want to consider games that require more mental

exercise such as hide and seek with a favorite toy or

treat.



Exercising your dog is not only for his/her physical

health, but also for his/her overall well-being. A

well-exercised dog is less likely to have behavioral

issues such as separation anxiety, excessive barking,

digging, and chewing.



Also, please note that just leaving your dog out in a

big yard in good weather doesn't mean he/she is

getting proper exercise. Dogs don't tend to exercise

on their own. You have to take charge of that part of

your dog's life to ensure that they get plenty of

exercise every single day.



References:

http://www.dogguide.net/physical-exercises.php

http://www.doggiesparadise.com/exercise.shtml





=================================================



3) "Should You Express Your Pet's Anal Glands or Not?"



=================================================



This may be an unpleasant topic to some, but it's

something pet owners should be aware of so they can

deal with it if and when they have to. The topic? Anal

glands.



WHAT ARE ANAL GLANDS?



Anal glands can be found on either side of your cat or

dog's anus, underneath the skin. They are small sacs

that secrete a liquid that has a strong, unpleasant

odor. This smelly liquid is that cat or dog's unique

and identifying odor. Normally, the liquid is secreted

along with the animal's feces. If the animal's feces

is not hard enough (which some attribute to modern pet

food, which is usually higher in fillers rather than

meat), the anal sacs will not receive enough pressure

to "express" the fluid. Sometimes, a dog or cat will

express their glands of the fluid when it is startled

or scared. Some even express their glands when the vet

uses a rectal thermometer. One of my clients

experienced that with a newly acquired cat. She took

the cat in for a check-up and during the exam, the

room was suddenly filled with a very stinky odor!



HOW DO I KNOW IF MY PET'S GLANDS NEED TO BE EXPRESSED?



Like any pet issue, some animals don't have any

problems while others have consistent problems with

their glands. For some, a high-fiber diet (that will

bulk up feces) and regular checks of the anal glands

might be necessary. It's up to you to stay observant

and act fast when you see something out of the

ordinary. If the glands are not expressed regularly or

adequately, the liquid can become thicker and the

glands can become impacted. If bacteria enters the

glands, an infection can result, and even escalate to

an abscess. This is very painful for the animal and

will need medical treatment.



Some problem signs you may want to watch for include:

* "scooting," or dragging of the rear end on the floor

* excessive licking of the anal area

* crying when trying to defecate

* unusually soft stools

* unusually strong odor from the anal area

* obvious sensitivity in the rear end



Take your pet for a vet visit if you suspect an anal

gland problem. As with any medical condition, the

sooner you address it, the better. If the problem

becomes chronic, surgical removal of the glands might

be necessary.



CAN I EXPRESS THE GLANDS MYSELF?



Yes, if you are properly instructed and motivated, you

can learn how to express your pet's anal glands. The

best thing you can do is talk to your vet about this

topic and see if they can help you with instructions.

Expressing the glands means locating the sacs and

applying the proper pressure in the right direction.

This is a sensitive area, so learning how to express

the glands properly is important. If you don't do

things correctly, you can potentially cause more

problems, like infection. You can also have your

groomer do the deed.



Here is a site I found online that demonstrates

expressing the anal glands of a dog.

http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/dog-grooming-basics-glands.htm



References:

http://dogs.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Dog_Anal_Glands

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&cat=1322&articleid=509





=================================================



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"



=================================================



We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is

just one issue, with much more important information

coming in future months.



Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for

upcoming issues to us at:



rdelgado@thewoofpack.com



Your feedback matters to us!





======================================================



Copyright 2008 by The Woof Pack.

All rights reserved.



======================================================





You are subscribed to The Woof Pack Times Newsletter as

[email]



If you have received this mailing in error, or if you no

longer wish to receive email from the The Woof Pack Pet Sitting

and Care, please visit the link below to unsubscribe.



You will be automatically excluded from any future newsletter

mailings. You may still receive important updates and offers from

us.

unsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



If you want to be completely excluded from all emails, except for

when we are performing pet services for your and your pets (if you

are a client), you may unsubscribe from all lists by sending us a blank

email at the following link.

allunsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



Or, if you would prefer to unsubscribe via postal mail,

please contact us at:



The Woof Pack

Attn: Newsletter Subscription Dept.

P.O. Box 2714

Fremont, CA 94536-2714





Please remember to include the email address we have

contacted you at, so that we can complete your request

without delay.

by: Richard Delgado



================================================



Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

this publication. You have received this newsletter

because you are either a client of The Woof Pack, or

you have signed up for the newsletter by filling out

our form.



We are sending you this complimentary issue, but if you

would no longer like to receive newsletters from The

Woof Pack, the unsubscribe instructions are at the

bottom of this publication.



We know you will love the pet care information included,

so if you enjoy it, do nothing and a new issue will come

once every month.



================================================



In this issue:



1) "How to Relieve Your Cat's Boredom" 



2) "How to Boost Confidence in Your Dog"



3) "Tell Us What You Think!"



================================================



1) "How to Relieve Your Cat's Boredom"



================================================



How many times have you sat around with nothing to do and

exclaimed, "I'm bored!" Now think of your cat at home for

hours at a time with nothing to do while you're at work.

Indoor cats with little or no stimulation will probably just

focus on eating and sleeping or even causing mischief.

Granted, cats do spend a lot of time sleeping, but if left on

their own outside, cats will also spend time stalking and

hunting prey, playing, and socializing with other cats.



Here are some suggestions to keep your pet engaged and

entertained for a healthier, happier life.



* SOCIALIZE

If you get a kitten, be sure to socialize him/her as soon as

you can. Have people visit you and your kitten to get used to

being around different people. Even if you adopt an adult cat,

you should make sure to socialize him/her. While you're out of

the house, you can get a friend or neighbor to visit and play

with your cat. You can also hire a pet sitter to visit and play

with your cat.



* TOYS

There are plenty of cat toys out there for you to check out.

There are fuzzy ones, feathery ones, ones with bells, ones with

catnip inside them, ones attached to strings and poles, and

battery-powered ones that move on their own. You can find them

at grocery stores and pet stores. When you can, engage your cat

with a toy. Get them to stalk and pounce, chase and capture. There

are special toys you can fill with catnip or food to really get

your cat interested.



Sometimes, you won't even need to buy a special cat toy. A balled

up piece of aluminum foil, a ping pong ball, or a length of yarn

can be just as entertaining to your cat. Also, consider leaving a

paper bag or cardboard box on the floor. Cats love to explore new

things and love to go inside small spaces.



* SOMETHING TALL

Cats love to go up high. We've all probably heard of stories about

cats getting stuck in trees. It's in their nature to climb and perch

on something far off the ground. You can buy pre-made cat "condos,"

which are built in different sizes and covered in carpet. If you're

ambitious, you can build one yourself. One of my clients has a great

climbing pole made out of the thick cardboard center from a roll of

carpet. He covered it with extra carpet from that roll and voila! Super

cat climber contraption! His cats love to climb on it and also scratch

the heck out of it.



In addition to the pole, my client built several perches around the

house so the cats could jump from one to the next, peer out of

windows, and sit and sleep on them. One of his cats' favorite perches

is in front of a window at the second-story level.



* SOMETHING TO SCRATCH - OTHER THAN YOUR COUCH

One of the ways cats mark their territory is by scratching. They also

scratch to shed the outer layer of their nails and to sharpen them. One

of the things to remember when buying or building a scratching post is

that cats like to scratch tall things. The same client who built all the

perches also built a very tall scratching post. He bought a piece of

two-by-four at a home improvement store, wrapped a long length of rope

around it all the way up to about six feet. The cats love it, especially

because when they stand up on their hind legs and stretch their front

legs up onto the pole, they cat stretch as far as they want and will still

have plenty of pole to scratch.



* CAT TV

You can leave a television on for the sights and sounds it provides your

cat. There are even cat entertainment DVDs out there for purchase. They

feature other creatures such as bugs, fish, mice, and birds for the cat

to watch.



* FISH

If you're up for the challenge and responsibility of owning a few more

pets, consider an aquarium with fish. I know a pet owner who had a fish

tank with several fish and her cat loved to watch them swim around. Of

course, you have to make sure the tank is secure so that the cat can't get

a paw into the water and scoop up a fish! (Again, this suggestion is only

for those who can take on the effort and expense of maintaining the fish

and the tank. It's not a toy for the cat, but another set of pets and the

resulting hard work.)



* A CAT BUDDY

A lone cat might like to have a companion, so consider bringing another

cat into the picture. Of course, there are no guarantees that the cats will

become friends and playmates, but it's something to consider.





=================================================



2) "How to Boost Confidence in Your Dog"



=================================================





As a pet sitter, I've encountered many different breeds

of dogs as well as various temperaments and personalities.

One troublesome trait I've dealt with several times is

fearfulness or shyness. Excessive fear or anxiety in your

pet can become a pretty big problem if left untreated. Dogs

will exhibit fear in various ways, such as trembling,

salivating, pacing, running and hiding, tucking their tails

between their legs, urinating, or even exhibiting aggression

like growling, barking, and biting. Here are a few

suggestions on how to deal with an overly fearful or

anxious dog.



THE SOURCE OF FEAR

Dogs can exhibit fear of many things, such as people,

other dogs, inanimate objects like vacuum cleaners or

skateboards, separation from the owner, and loud

sounds like firecrackers or thunderstorms. The list

can go on and on. Perhaps the dog was not socialized

properly when he/she was a puppy, or was traumatized

by abuse, or maybe just predisposed to being fearful.

In any case, you have to be the stable source of

energy that will consistently and gently lead the dog

away from exhibiting the behaviors associated with the

source of his/her fear.



VISIT THE VET

Of course, as with any negative situation with your

dog, rule out any medical reasons. Make sure your dog

is healthy and that there are no underlying illnesses

or medical conditions that might be causing the

problem.



BE THE CONFIDENT LEADER

After ruling out any health issues, the most important

thing to remember is that you have the biggest

influence on your dog. For your dog to overcome fear

and become more confident, you have to be calm,

assertive, and positive. Animals can sense how you are

feeling, so it's critical that you project the

confidence that you want your dog to adopt.



You must also gain your dog's trust and confidence as

the leader. If your dog looks to you as the pack

leader, he/she will more readily listen to and follow

your instructions. The assertiveness you practice with

your dog can only help him/her. You have to remember

that dogs are dogs; they are not four-legged humans.

If you resort to reassuring and coddling a dog as you

would a child, it could have the opposite effect of

reinforcing the negative behaviors you're trying to

stop.



One thing that is very helpful when you attempt to

help your dog overcome fear is making sure your dog

knows some basic commands like "sit," "lie down," and

"stay." If your dog listens to you as a leader and

knows a few word commands, it will make it easier for

you to control your dog in stressful situations.



DE-SENSITIZE AND COUNTER CONDITION

A common way to help your dog overcome fear of

specific things, such as a person, an item, or

thunderstorms, is to de-sensitize them to the object of

their anxiety. For example, if your dog is fearful of

thunderstorms, you can get a recording a thunderstorm

and play it over and over again, gradually increasing

the volume.



To do this properly, make sure your dog is

in a calm and happy state. Then, start the recording

at a very low level. If the dog doesn't show signs of

fear, reward with a treat and increase the volume. If

the dog starts showing fear, stop and lower the volume

until he/she is calm again. Then, start over. You can

have these types of sessions with a professional or

try them on your own. It's very important to know that

this takes plenty of time and patience, with sessions

taking place over the course of days, weeks or even

months.



You can also de-sensitize dogs to items. We'll use a

skateboard for this example. If your dog acts fearful

around a skateboard, you can bring one within eyesight

of the dog. Have your dog sit and stay. If your dog

stays calm, reward and praise him. If he acts

fearful, don't comfort the dog. That only reinforces

the negative reaction. Instead, move the item away

until he calms down and start again. Slowly move

the item closer to the dog, rewarding the dog if

he remains relaxed. Eventually, you can try having

someone ride by at a distance and again look for

either a calm or fearful reaction. Slow and steady is

the key and never push your dog too fast.



To counter condition, you teach the dog that the thing

that scares him can now be a source of good

things. For example, if your dog is scared of men, you

can have a male friend help out in the sessions,

creating situations where the dog will associate

treats and positive feelings by being around a man

instead of experiencing the usual anxiety.



Again, like with any training, this takes time and

patience. You can have your friend visit and just

ignore the dog. Don't force the interaction. The man

can sit on the floor, facing away from the dog, never

making eye contact. You can have him hold an especially

tempting treat so the dog has an incentive to approach.



Over time, the dog will sniff and approach, and maybe even

take a treat that has been dropped on the floor by the

man. The dog may eventually take the treat directly

from the man. As the owner, you should be there,

projecting happy and positive energy, staying calm,

but never reassuring the dog if he/she shows fear or

tries to cling to you.



You can use de-sensitizing and counter conditioning

together for all types of fears, from objects to

people to noises. If your dog is afraid of traffic

noises, slowly introduce him to the noises. Take

him for walks in town to increasingly busy areas.

If your dog is afraid of other dogs, introduce your

dog in a controlled and safe environment to a smaller,

well-behaved and confident dog. Gradually introduce

him to other dogs.



If your dog has separation anxiety, you can implement

the same techniques, gradually getting him used to the

idea of you being gone. Have your dog sit and stay while

you move away. Reward the dog if he stays and doesn't whine

or cry. Slowly increase the distance and the duration of

your absence. Keep rewarding calm behavior and don't

reward anxious behavior.



The key to using these techniques effectively is to

move at a slow and consistent pace, gradually training

your dog to be more confident and trusting. These

techniques can work if you are patient and always

remain calm.



CALL IN A PRO

You might want to consider calling in a professional

to help you since these techniques take a lot of

patience and correct handling. If you push too hard or

too fast, it can cause your dog to become more fearful

and even aggressive. A very fearful or anxious dog

might benefit from a knowledgeable trainer who has

experienced and treated troubled dogs.



You and your dog can also benefit from professional obedience

and/or agility training. Learning new commands and

skills can serve to boost your dog's confidence, give

him something new and exciting to focus on, relieve boredom,

and distract him from the things that might scare him.



DON'T SCOLD OR PUNISH

Never scold or punish your dog for showing fear. This

will only be counterproductive. At the same time,

remember not to reassure or coddle your dog when they

are in a frightened state. This will only reinforce

the negative behavior. Instead, try to take their

mind off of whatever is causing them fear, or start running

through training drills that you have been working on. Making

them work at a time of distress is a great way to alleviate

the fear, and make them use their brain in a productive way.



BE PATIENT AND CONSISTENT

As with any type of dog training, this will take a lot

of patience, consistency, and persistence. You can't

rush your dog into becoming a confident and happy

animal. If you push too hard or too fast, you can

cause setbacks and additional problems. Training your

dog can take weeks or months, so keep in mind that

this is a long-term proposition.



MEDICATION

For some dogs, it might be appropriate to look into

some type of anti-anxiety medication. This may help in the

beginning, but I believe in solving the problem, not masking

it with medication. Only a vet can check your dog and prescribe

the right medical solution. Do not give dogs human medication as

it can be harmful or even deadly.





==========================================================



3) "Tell Us What You Think!"



==========================================================



We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is

just one issue, with much more important information

coming in future months.



Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for

upcoming issues to us at:



rdelgado@thewoofpack.com



Your feedback matters to us!





======================================================



Copyright 2007 by The Woof Pack.

All rights reserved.



======================================================





You are subscribed to The Woof Pack Times Newsletter as

[email]



If you have received this mailing in error, or if you no

longer wish to receive email from the The Woof Pack Pet Sitting

and Care, please visit the link below to unsubscribe.



You will be automatically excluded from any future newsletter

mailings. You may still receive important updates and offers from

us.

unsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



If you want to be completely excluded from all emails, except for

when we are performing pet services for your and your pets (if you

are a client), you may unsubscribe from all lists by sending us a blank

email at the following link.

allunsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



Or, if you would prefer to unsubscribe via postal mail,

please contact us at:



The Woof Pack

Attn: Newsletter Subscription Dept.

P.O. Box 2714

Fremont, CA 94536-2714





Please remember to include the email address we have

contacted you at, so that we can complete your request

without delay.

by: Richard Delgado



================================================



Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

this publication. You have received this newsletter

because you are either a client of The Woof Pack, or

you have signed up for the newsletter by filling out

our form.



We are sending you this complimentary issue, but if you

would no longer like to receive newsletters from The

Woof Pack, the unsubscribe instructions are at the

bottom of this publication.



We know you will love the pet care information included,

so if you enjoy it, do nothing and a new issue will come

once every month.



================================================



In this issue:



1) "Let Me Recap Thanksgiving Pet Safety Tips"



2) "Moving With Your Pet, Part 2"



3) "Tell Us What You Think!"



================================================



1) "Let Me Recap Thanksgiving Pet Safety Tips"



================================================



Yes, Thanksgiving is upon us again. It marks the start of the big holiday

season, and it is a day for us to give thanks for all that we have, and

all that we have accomplished. When giving thanks for our husband, wife,

kids, parents, etc., don't forget to give thanks to our pets. They bring

us such joy and happiness, and we would feel a little empty without them.

I want to recap last year's Thanksgiving pet safety tips for you, so you

can keep your beloved pets safe so they can keep bringing you happiness.



Start---



Thanksgiving is upon us, and holiday festivities will be in full swing

for the rest of the year, and then some. For Thanksgiving, I want to

give you some more tips to keep your pets safe. This is part 2 of a

3-part series on Holiday pet safety.



Just like part 1 of our pet safety tips from Halloween, if you are

having a gathering at your home, be aware of where your pets are when

you are opening and closing the door to let your guests in. People tend

to linger in the doorway and exchange greetings, which leaves the door

open for a long while. Does your dog or cat bolt out the door? Will they

come when called? Keep the door open for as little time as possible, and

if your pets tend to run out, confine them to a room to prevent this from

happening. This also will prevent your guests from being jumped on by an

excited pet.



How do your pets react to large numbers of people, and to possible

strangers? You do not want your guests feeling uneasy, or threatened by

an aggressive pet. And, you do not want your pets to be all over your

guests when they are just trying to enjoy their time with you. If your

pets will be aggressive, or very overly friendly, or if this will cause fear

and stress for your pets, then confine them in a nice quiet part of the

house where they can be comfortable and stress free.



We are going to eat a very large, high fat meal at Thanksgiving, guaranteed.

Although our bodies can handle it (to some degree), our pet's intestinal

tract is not equipped to handle such a high fat diet. And, our pet's diets

are much less varied than ours. They eat the same meal every day. Giving

them table scraps of high fat content will cause upset stomachs, and

possibly diarrhea or vomiting. Do your pets a favor and just do not feed

them any table scraps, no matter how much they plead. You will thank me

for this. Besides, feeding your pets table scraps will create begging,

which is a hard habit to break.



Another reason not to feed your pets table scraps is that many of the things

we eat are toxic to your pets. Onions and garlic will cause anemia in pets.

Anemia is the reduced ability of the red blood cells to carry oxygen.

Chocolate is toxic to your pets and can cause heart problems, even leading

to death. Rasins and grapes are toxic to pets. These are linked to kidney

failure.



The cooking string from your turkey or roast can cause major problems if

your pet swallows it. Instead of the string passing through, the stomach or

intestine actually 'climbs up' the string, essentially turning itself inside

out. If your pet does swallow string, and you see it hanging out of your pet's

mouth, do not pull it out! This can cause the same thing I just mentioned.

Take your pet to the emergency vet immediately.



Speaking of turkey and roast, do not feed your pet the bones left over

from the turkey carcass, roast, or ham. When cooked, bones become brittle

and can splinter. These splinters can cause major internal problems in your

pets. They can also cause an obstruction. Just don't do it.



When the day is over, make sure to keep all garbage out of reach of your

pets. If your pet gets into the garbage, they may get hold of any of the

things I have just talked about.



If your pet will be out and about during the festivities, feed them before

you and your guests sit down to eat. Doing this will help curb your pet's

tendency to beg. You may want to keep them separated during the meal if

they tend to beg. You may also want to give them something to keep them

busy while you are enjoying your meal. Give them their favorite toy, or give

them a Kong filled with their favorite treat to keep them occupied.



All in all, you want to stick with the routine for your pets. The same food

at the same time will fill them up, and they will be happy. Be safe, you

are responsible for your pets.



So remember to think about keeping your pets safe and comfortable during

this Thanksgiving holiday. Think about how your pets may react to certain

situations, and plan accordingly to keep them out of harms way.





=================================================



2) "Moving With Your Pet, Part 2"



=================================================



I addressed moving with your pet(s) in my previous

newsletter, so now I'd like to add to that and discuss

moving to another state or even another country.



A RECAP

First, a few reminders from my previous article:

* Animals can sense your moods and emotions. The

pending move may stress you out, but try to keep a

positive attitude.

* Make sure your pet's identification collar/tags are

up-to-date with your new information. If your pet has

an embedded ID chip, make sure to update the

information with the company that holds your pet's

information as soon as you can.

* Be sure to get your pet's records so you can give

them to your new vet.

* When you begin your move, keep your pets' safety in

mind. If you need to move in and out with the door

open, keep your pets in a carrier or crate.

* Again, once you're in your new home, keep an eye on

your pets so they don't slip out an open door. They

might try to go back to their old home, even if that

old home is thousands of miles away!



MOVING TO A NEW CITY/STATE

Now, if your moving plans are taking you out of the

state, check with the Sate Department of Agriculture

for any laws/regulations about pet transport for your

new home state. Also check with your new home city for

restrictions such as leash laws, and any limits on the

number and types of pets you can own. For example, the

city of Fremont has specific regulations about

obtaining a license for cats and dogs. (See

http://www.ci.fremont.ca.us/Permits/OtherPermits/PetLicense.htm

for details.) You should find out as much as you

can via the internet and/or by calling the city

clerk's office.



One thing you will most likely need for any

destination is a rabies certification and a recent

health certificate from your vet that is no more than

10 days old.



Whether you're transporting your pet via car or plane,

it's best not to sedate them. It's better to get them

used to being in a crate and going for short trips

well in advance of your move to ease anxiety. Feed

them only a light meal about 6 hours before their

journey on a plane. Don't give them water too close to

flight time. Some water about 3 hours before their

flight should suffice.



For a car trip, feed your pet a few hours before you

head out. If it's a long trip, schedule periodic stops

for bathroom breaks. Be sure you have a supply of

food, water, towels, and any medication. You might

also want to include a first aid kit (for yourself as

well your pet!). If your trip has you staying at a

motel, check beforehand for motels that allow pets and

what their rules are.



ALOHA!

If you're moving pets to Hawai'i, be sure you check

(and double check) what you will need to do. One

information source is the State of Hawai'i website.

See www.hawaii.gov/hdoa/ai/aqs/info for animal

quarantine information.



In the past, Hawai'i used to keep pets quarantined for

months. But today, with proper planning and by

obtaining all the necessary paperwork, you can get

your pets in and out of the quarantine station within

a few hours. There are specific and strict

requirements for this including obtaining rabies

certificates, blood tests, and a health certificate.

Here are some FAQs about the 5-day or less quarantine

program: www.hawaii.gov/hdoa/ai/aqs/faq5



Next, find out what you will need to do for your

airplane trip. Check your airline's website and also

call them to ensure you have all the requirements

covered. Note that no airline will transport pets in

the passenger cabin when traveling from the Mainland

to Hawai'i. Small animals can be checked in as

baggage, but larger animals will have to go as cargo.

The airlines will have specific requirements for the

type and size of crate you will have to use for each

animal.



A friend of mine recently got firsthand experience

transporting two cats and a dog from California to

Hawai'i on Hawaiian Airlines and reports that things

went pretty smoothly. She did have a problem earlier

when, after several phone calls, the airline reps

neglected to tell her that there was an embargo on

transporting animals during the summer months because

of the heat. She had to change the pets' transport

date from June to late October.



She made reservations for each pet when she bought the

ticket for herself because the airline allowed only a

limited number of animals on each flight. Hours before

the flight's departure, she took her dog for check-in

at the airport's cargo area. Then, she went to the

regular counter for the airline and checked in her

suitcases and the two cats. For each animal, she had

all the proper paperwork on hand and ready to show.



A few details:

* My friend's flight left San Francisco at 8:30 a.m.,

but she had to have her dog at the cargo area no later

than 5:30 A.M.

* After she checked the cats in, she had to accompany

them down to where they would wait to be loaded onto

the plane. The workers there asked her to take the

cats out of their crates so they could check the

crates themselves.

* The bottom of the crates were lined with soft pads

for comfort. My friend put "LIVE ANIMALS" stickers on

the crates and also printed up a photo ID to affix to

the back of the crate. Each ID had a photo, the pet's

name, sex, breed, ID Chip #, her cell phone number,

and the pet's destination address.



Once she arrived in Honolulu Airport in 'Oahu, where

the Airport Animal Quarantine Holding Facility is

located, she walked from the airport terminal to the

station. The walk took just a few minutes. She did

have to ask directions because although there was a

sign for the station, it didn't indicate exactly which

way to go.



Once at the station, she had to hit a buzzer to be let

in. She presented her paperwork and waited for her

animals to be brought out. My friend had a bit of a

problem here. There was some miscommunication and she

had to wait longer than necessary for her pets. Just

be sure to be friendly, but persistent, when checking

on the status of your pets. My friend was told by one

worker that the pets were not even there yet and that

it would take at least 45 minutes to process them.

About 15 minutes later, another worker told her they

had been there all along and ready to go.



Be sure to have transportation ready to take your

pets. The station won't release them if you don't have

a vehicle or luggage cart. My friend called a taxi

that was large enough to carry all animals. (The

taxi's business card was posted at the station.) The

kind driver took her to a local dog park so her dog

could finally get a potty break and some fresh air and

water. The cats were a little scared, so they just

wanted to stay in their crates.



Since my friend's final destination was the Big

Island, their odyssey wasn't quite over yet. After the

dog's potty break, they drove to the cargo area at the

airport to drop off the dog, then returned to the

terminal and checked the cats in as luggage again at

the airline counter. She gave herself plenty of time

(about 7 hours) during the layover in 'Oahu to

accomplish all of this. That turned out to be

much-needed extra time because her flight into 'Oahu

was delayed for 1 and 1/2 hours, and it took quite

some time to wait for and pick up the animals at the

quarantine station, give the dog a potty break,

present papers to both the cargo area and check-in

counter, and go through airport security again.



Once she arrived at Kona International Airport, the

pets were released to her along with her luggage. It

was a very long day, but it was all worth it when she

was able to introduce her pets to her new home in

paradise.



A NEW COUNTRY

If you're moving to another country, check with that

country's consulate for any regulations or fees. For

example, if you go to

http://www.sf.us.emb-japan.go.jp/archives/PR_e/pr_04_1109.htm

you can see an overview of the quarantine regulations

for Japan. Like moves to other cities or states, you

will most likely need rabies and health certificates.

There may also be quarantine laws you'll have to look

into. The best thing you can do is plan well in

advance for the move, especially if you have to deal

with quarantine issues.



As for your plane trip, check with the airline you'll

be taking since rules and restrictions may vary from

one to another.



I know this is a lot of information, but the more

homework and preparation you do before your actual

move, the better everything will be for your and your

pet(s)!







==========================================================



3) "Tell Us What You Think!"



==========================================================



We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is

just one issue, with much more important information

coming in future months.



Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for

upcoming issues to us at:



rdelgado@thewoofpack.com



Your feedback matters to us!





======================================================



Copyright 2006 by The Woof Pack.

All rights reserved.



======================================================





You are subscribed to The Woof Pack Times Newsletter as

[email]



If you have received this mailing in error, or if you no

longer wish to receive email from the The Woof Pack Pet Sitting

and Care, please visit the link below to unsubscribe.



You will be automatically excluded from any future newsletter

mailings. You may still receive important updates and offers from

us.

unsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



If you want to be completely excluded from all emails, except for

when we are performing pet services for your and your pets (if you

are a client), you may unsubscribe from all lists by sending us a blank

email at the following link.

allunsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



Or, if you would prefer to unsubscribe via postal mail,

please contact us at:



The Woof Pack

Attn: Newsletter Subscription Dept.

P.O. Box 2714

Fremont, CA 94536-2714





Please remember to include the email address we have

contacted you at, so that we can complete your request

without delay.

by: Richard Delgado



================================================



Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

this publication. You have received this newsletter

because you are either a client of The Woof Pack, or

you have signed up for the newsletter by filling out

our form.



We are sending you this complimentary issue, but if you

would no longer like to receive newsletters from The

Woof Pack, the unsubscribe instructions are at the

bottom of this publication.



We know you will love the pet care information included,

so if you enjoy it, do nothing and a new issue will come

once every month.



================================================





In this issue:





1) "Why Do Cats Purr, and What Does it Mean?"





2) "Self Vaccinating Your Pets"





3) "Moving With Your Pet"





4) "Tell Us What You Think!"







=================================================



1) "Why Do Cats Purr, and What Does it Mean?"



=================================================



One of the best things about owning a cat (or having

one own you!) is having him or her curl up on your lap

and purr to show contentment. At least that's how most

of us interpret a cat's purr. Because cats make that

rolling, melodic sound - high or low, smooth and

constant, or choppy and rough - when they are

experiencing what we think are pleasant sensations,

such as a tummy rub, we assume they purr when they're

happy.



Most of us have experienced the sounds of cats purring

in relaxing, positive situations, but sometimes, cats

will purr when they are hurt or distressed. Female

cats have been known to purr while giving birth.



There are theories floating out there about the

meaning of a cat's purr, but there are no concrete

facts. Could purring be an expression of happiness, to

comfort themselves or others, or as a form of

communication with other cats and with humans? No one

knows for sure.



With all these unknowns, there is one fact that

studies have revealed - that cats purr in a frequency

range which has shown to promote bone growth and

healing (between 22.4 to 30.2 hertz). So, perhaps cats

purr also to help heal themselves when they are hurt,

or just to keep healthy in general. Elizabeth von

Muggenthaler presented "The Felid Purr: A Healing

Mechanism?" an in-depth look at the purr's healing

power at the 142nd annual Acoustical Society of

America, American Institute of Physics, International

Conference in 2001. You can read this interesting

study at www.animalvoice.com/catpur.htm



Another mystery about cats purring is how they do it.

Doctors and scientists still haven't figured out

exactly how cats make that endearing noise. Some think

that cats purr by vibrating their vocal chords, while

others think it could be the blood vessels.



We may never find out exactly why or how our cats

purr, it certainly won't take away from the joy we

receive when cuddling with them.





=================================================



2. "Self Vaccinating Your Pets"



=================================================



A normal part of pet ownership today is ensuring

that they get their vaccinations, along with routine

vet checkups. Something I hadn't considered is

vaccinating my pets myself. There are, however,

people who self-vaccinate, so I thought I'd address

the issue.



I have found some information and various opinions

on the subject. Vaccinations and needles are available

for purchase by anyone. There are several online sources

for vaccines and needles. Of course, if purchased and

administered yourself, vaccinations will be less

expensive than going to the vet. Cost seems to be

the main reason some people consider self-vaccinating

their pets.



If you are considering this alternative, you should first

consult your veterinarian. You will also need to get a

prescription from your vet to prove to the retailer that you

are buying these drugs for your pets. You cannot buy vaccines

without this, and your vet's info. The retailer should contact

your vet to confirm this as well.



Talk to him/her about your pet's lifestyle, health, and any

unique needs. You should find out the different vaccines your

pet will need, as well as those that are not necessary. For

example, cats usually receive "core" vaccines which include feline

rabies virus, feline panleukopenia virus (FPV), feline

calicivirus (FCV), and feline herpesvirus 1 (FHV1).



Dogs receive the core vaccines of canine rabies

virus, canine parvovirus (CPV), canine distemper

virus (CDV), and canine adinovirus-2 (CAV-2). You

can ask your vet to instruct you on how and when to

administer shots and talk about possible side effects

and complications.



Note that in the U.S., all states require rabies

vaccines for all pets. Individual states and cities

may have other requirements that you should investigate.

For example, in Fremont, CA I must obtain a pet

license for each pet. To do that, I have to submit a

rabies certificate signed by a veterinarian.



In making your decision to self-vaccinate or not, you should

consider that your vet not only administers shots, but examines

your pet for overall health. This is something you can't do at

home. As with any health-related topic where your pet is

concerned, learn all you can, consult with your vet, and

make the decision based on what is best for you pet.



If you don't want to self-vaccinate, but find the vet fees too

high, find out if yor vet, any local pet stores, or local humane

society offices offer free or reduced-fee clinics.





=================================================



3) "Moving With Your Pet"



=================================================





Moving your household from one place to another can be

a frustrating, exhausting, and stressful experience.

There's all the organizing, packing, cleaning,

transporting to deal with, not to mention all the

unexpected surprises that inevitably hit at the

worst times. Having just made a move myself, I know!



If moving is stressful on us, think of how your pets

will feel when you pack up their entire world and

without any say in the matter, get whisked away to a

new, unfamiliar place.



To keep stress to a minimum for your pets and

yourself, here are a few tips. These tips address

moves that are not far and are accomplished by driving

only. In a future newsletter, I'll address moves that

involve going across state lines or even out of the country.



* While you're packing your things for the move try to

keep your pets' areas (food area, litter area,

bedding, etc.) the same for as long as you can. Also

try to keep as much of their daily routines intact.



* Animals can sense your moods and emotions. The

pending move may stress you out, but try to keep a

positive attitude.



* Make sure your pet's identification collar/tags are

up-to-date with your new information. If your pet has

an embedded ID chip, make sure to update the

information with the company that holds your pet's

information as soon as you can.



* If your move takes you away from your usual veterinarian,

be sure to get your pet's records so you can give them to

your new vet.



* When you begin your move, keep your pets' safety in

mind. It's not uncommon for pets to run off when a

door is left open and they are left unattended. If you

need to move in and out with the door open, keep your

pets in a carrier or crate. If your pets aren't used

to being in an enclosure, get them accustomed to it

before moving day.



You can put soft bedding or an item of clothing with

your scent on it into the crate or carrier and leave

it open. Your pet is sure to investigate. You can also

entice them into the space using treats. If they are

used to the crate/carrier being a part of the household,

they won't be as stressed when they have to go into it on

moving day.



* If you're having professional movers help, you might

want to place your pets (in their carriers) in an

empty room and keep the door closed. Make sure

everyone knows not to enter the room so the pets are

kept secure.



* Whether you're moving using your car, a truck, or

van, keep your pets secure in their carriers in the

passenger areas. For dogs that are accustomed to it, a

safety harness can be used instead of a crate. Never

put animals in the trunk of a car, the bed of a truck,

or in the back of a van. And never leave them in the

vehicle.



You've probably heard it many times, but I think it's

important to emphasize how dangerous it is to leave your

pets in a vehicle. The outside temperature may seem okay

to you, but it gets many times hotter inside a vehicle.

Your pets should be the last in before you start driving,

and the first out when you reach your destination.



* Make sure to have your pet's items (toys, food bowl,

litter pan, etc.) in the new place before they arrive.

It will certainly reassure them to see/smell their

items there. Let them explore, but keep an eye on them

to keep them out of trouble! My new kittens had a

great time exploring (more like getting into) the many

boxes in our new home .



* After your move, keep up their daily routines, such

as feeding and exercise, at the usual times. Keeping

some things the same will make your pets feel more at

ease.



* Once you're in your new home, keep an eye on your

pets so they don't slip out an open door. It's all new

to them, so they might get confused when they get

outside alone and try to go back to their old home.





==========================================================



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"



==========================================================





We'd love to hear what you think of this issue! This is

just one issue, with much more important information

coming in future months.



Please send your comments, questions, and ideas for

upcoming issues to us at:



rdelgado@thewoofpack.com



Your feedback matters to us!





======================================================



Copyright 2007 by The Woof Pack.

All rights reserved.



======================================================





You are subscribed to The Woof Pack Times Newsletter as

[email]



If you have received this mailing in error, or if you no

longer wish to receive email from the The Woof Pack Pet Sitting

and Care, please visit the link below to unsubscribe.



You will be automatically excluded from any future newsletter

mailings. You may still receive important updates and offers from

us.

unsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



If you want to be completely excluded from all emails, except for

when we are performing pet services for your and your pets (if you

are a client), you may unsubscribe from all lists by sending us a blank

email at the following link.

allunsubscribe@thewoofpack.com



Or, if you would prefer to unsubscribe via postal mail,

please contact us at:



The Woof Pack

Attn: Newsletter Subscription Dept.

P.O. Box 2714

Fremont, CA 94536-2714





Please remember to include the email address we have

contacted you at, so that we can complete your request

without delay.

by: Richard Delgado



================================================



Welcome to all our new subscribers! We hope you enjoy

this publication. You have received this newsletter

because you are either a client of The Woof Pack, or

you have signed up for the newsletter by filling out

our form.



We are sending you this complimentary issue, but if you

would no longer like to receive newsletters from The

Woof Pack, the unsubscribe instructions are at the

bottom of this publication.



We know you will love the pet care information included,

so if you enjoy it, do nothing and a new issue will come

once every month.



================================================



In this issue:



1) "The Importance of Brushing Your Pet's Teeth"



2) "Simple Grooming That You Can Do on Your Pets to Keep Them Healthy"



3) "Tips on Capturing Your Pets on Film for Great Photos"



4) "Tell Us What You Think!"





=================================================



1) "The Importance of Brushing Your Pet's Teeth"



=================================================



Brushing your teeth is something you probably do without even thinking,

right? It has most likely been a part of your wake-up and bedtime

routines since you were a kid. Just as we do our best to keep our

teeth healthy into old age, we should give the same consideration

to our hairy companions. Without a little help from us, your dog or

cat can suffer from plaque build-up, gum disease, cavities, and bad

breath, just like we can. Also, bacteria from a diseased mouth can travel

from your pet's mouth, and travel to their organs, causing disease in the

liver, heart,and other vital organs, shortening their lives.



Since they can't brush their own teeth, we have to give them a helping

hand. If you've never brushed your pet's teeth, it might sound like a

formidable task, but if you're patient and take it slowly, it's

certainly do-able and your pet would thank you if he or she could.



Whether you have a canine or feline friend at home, the procedure will

be the same. You'll want to gather all your needed tools: gauze or

washcloth, a finger toothbrush or one with a handle that is made especially

for pets, pet toothpaste, treats, and plenty of patience! There are even

sponges or pads for sale that are made especially for pet dental care.



The first thing you want to do is get them used to you touching their

mouth and teeth. You can start out by making it part of a petting session.

When you're stroking their head or under their chin, touch their muzzle.

Make it pleasurable for them and take it slow and easy.



When they get used to being touched around their mouth and lips, you can

try gently putting your finger on their teeth, again stroking and keeping

it a fun exercise. You might try dipping your finger into something tasty,

like tuna water for kitties or beef stock for doggies. Gently move your

finger over the teeth and gumline in a circular motion. Do this for short

sessions and stop before the pet starts to protest or tries to get away.

You don't want them to associate this exercise with anything negative.

Praise your pet and give them a low fat treat after you're done with a

session.



When they are used to your finger, you can graduate to using something

like a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger. Again, your goal is to

move the gauze over the teeth and gumline in a circular motion to clean

them. You don't have to get all the teeth in one session, and concentrate

on the outside of the teeth, especially the larger canine teeth, and the

premolars and the molars in the back. That's where most of the tartar

buildup will occur.



For the next step you'll want to use some toothpaste. DO NOT use human

toothpaste on your pet. Use ONLY toothpaste specially formulated for

animals. Human toothpaste contains ingredients that are not meant to be

ingested. Since Fido or Fluffy can't spit like we do, they will eat the

toothpaste. Go to your pet supply store or your vet to get flavored

toothpaste for your pet.



Now it's time to introduce the toothbrush. There are many types of pet

toothbrushes out there for sale, so be sure to check them out to see which

one will be the best for your pet. Obviously, a little toothbrush meant to

fit over your finger would be fine for cats, but might be too small for a

larger breed dog. And it's probably best not to use a human child's

toothbrush instead of a pet toothbrush because pet toothbrushes are

ergonomically designed for this special task.



Again, with lots of patience and praise for cooperating, gently use the

toothbrush soaked in warm water with a dab of toothpaste to clean the teeth.

Try to get up to the gumline at about a 45 degree angle and move the brush

around in a circular or oval motion. Brush the teeth, up into the gumline,

and in between teeth. Try to get about four teeth at a time and brush about

10 times per section. This is something you have to work up to, so try a

section per brushing session at first, not all their teeth. Keep tabs on

how your pet is reacting and remember to stop before they start to squirm

and protest. You want to keep this as positive an experience as possible.



Working your way up from your finger with gauze to a toothbrush may take

several weeks. If your pet can tolerate it, it's best to clean their teeth

every day. If you can't do it that often, try for at least once a week.



When you're brushing your pet's teeth, be sure to check things out and note

anything unusual, like foul breath, discolored or chipped teeth, inflamed

or red gums. A trip to the vet may be in order if you find anything unusual.



As with any exercise with cats or dogs, practice patience, give lots of

positive reinforcement and praise, and always have an upbeat yet calm

attitude. Your pet knows you and your moods, so stay positive and happy!





================================================



2) "Simple Grooming That You Can Do on Your Pets to Keep Them Healthy"



================================================



As responsible pet owners, we want to do all we can to keep our companions

healthy and happy. The routine things we do for our pets, like providing

nutritious meals, fresh clean water, and exercise, should always include

proper grooming. I'll cover some of the basic needs of our pets and how we

can take care of them.



BRUSHING HAIR



It's ideal if you can take a few moments out of every day to brush your cat

or dog. All types and sizes of brushes are available for purchase online or

at your pet store. Not only will it keep their coats shiny and healthy, it

will help remove dirt, untangle knots, and distribute their natural body oils

along their hair. This is especially important for long-haired breeds of dogs

and cats. Consistent brushing also helps during the warmer summer months when

our pets shed extra hair. Because cats groom themselves, they end up swallowing

a lot of extra hair, creating hairballs that can make them vomit or cause an

internal obstruction. You can help keep hairballs to a minimum by daily brushing.



Be thorough, brushing the head, back, sides, stomach, tail, and legs. This is a

perfect time not only for bonding with your pet, but to also check their hair and

skin condition. Hair should be shiny, full, and pliable. Dull, dusty-looking,

thinning hair may signal a problem. Skin should be clean and free of dry spots,

scabs, or scales. You can also pay attention to how they smell. Normal, healthy

skin and hair shouldn't have much odor. Even if your dog or cat got dirty, they

should just smell like whatever made them dirty in the first place. If they smell

oily or rancid, they might have a problem that should be checked by your vet.



TRIMMING HAIR



Some breeds of cats and dogs grow very long hair. This can sometimes become

uncomfortable and potentially unhealthy if left unchecked. Regular trips to a

professional groomer will keep hair from tangling and keep animals from

overheating during the warmer months. If you're going to tackle the task

yourself, be sure to educate yourself on how to trim your pet and gather the

appropriate pet grooming tools.



TRIMMING NAILS



It's a good idea to keep your cat's nails trimmed if he/she is strictly an

indoor cat. Use appropriate nail clippers (available at any pet store) and

trim only the tips of the nails. The best time to do this is when they are

relaxed and sleepy. You should also stay relaxed and keep it a positive

experience. Give your kitty a treat afterwards.



Dogs also need their nails trimmed. If they get too long, it will be

uncomfortable for them to walk. Again, get an appropriate trimmer for your

dog. Keep it a positive experience and give treats afterwards. For both dogs

and cats, DO NOT clip too close to the quick or colored part of the nail.

Your pet will feel pain if you accidentally clip too far and the nail will

bleed. If that happens in either your cat or dog, use a styptic pencil or

powder to stop the bleeding.



If you've never clipped nails before, you might want to have your vet or groomer show you how to do it before attempting it yourself. Again, get the proper

tools for the job. There are special nail trimmers made for dogs and cats

available at pet stores.



BATHING



Regular bathing with water and pet-friendly shampoos (don't use human soaps/

shampoos) is also an important part of pet grooming routines. For dogs, a bath

every month should be adequate. You don't want to over bathe because that will

strip the natural oils away and dry out the skin. Brush your pet before you bathe

him or her. You can put a cotton ball in each ear to prevent water from getting

in. Fill your tub, sink, or buckets of water beforehand.



First rinse with warm water, and avoid spraying water directly into your pet's

face. Use a shampoo designed especially for pets and work your way from head to

tail. Leave your pet's face for last though. Be sure to wash under the chin,

behind the ears, between the toes, and around the rectum. You can use a washcloth

and warm water to wipe the face area. Rinse your pet well with warm water because

shampoo left on your pet will cause skin irritation. Then dry him or her off with

a towel or a pet dryer, or hair dryer. Make sure you do not use too hot of a

setting for drying them. You do not want to burn them.



Of course, most cats don't really like being bathed, so it won't be as simple.

Cats are generally clean animals because they groom themselves, but there might

be a time when you need to bathe them. They might have something on their hair

you don't want them to lick off, like car oil or grease, or you might need to

give them a medicated bath to kill pests or to care for a skin condition. Clip

the cat's nails before you bathe him/her. Wear long sleeves and maybe gloves.



I used to bathe my cat Emily in a glass-enclosed shower so she could not escape

before her bath was completed. You will also benefit from having an assistant!

One person can hold the cat while the other one shampoos/rinses the cat. It depends

on the cat. Emily was a rampage if you tried to do anything like that normally,

but in the shower she was gentle as an angel. Again, rinse off all the shampoo well.



BRUSHING TEETH



Dental hygiene is as important to pets as it is to us. Regular brushing can prevent

plaque build-up, gum disease, cavities, and bad breath.